WAFT....what a fragrancefanatic thinks

"Our Winter 2012 Top Fragrances & Other Stuff " and a draw !

2012-01-27T06:54:00.101-05:00

2012 is here ! A cycle has ended , a new one begun . Our collective consciousness holds it's breath - will we see great changes ? Are the ancient peoples correct in their predictions for this time on Earth ?

The Mayan Long Calendar speaks of the end of one cycle of time moving into the next on December 21 , 2012 when their date numbering system rolls over to 13.0.0.0.0

Some researchers suggest Nostradamus was a true prophet and that his prophecies are genuine. Credited with accurately predicting numerous major world events including the assassinations of JFK and Princess Diana, the rise of antichrists Napoleon Bonaparte and Adolf Hitler, the French Revolution, the collapse of the World Trade Centre and the Challenger Disaster, Nostradamus is now being closely linked with the 2012 “end of the world” prophecies cited by ancient cultures like the Mayan, the Hopi and Hindu texts.

Just like the Mayan, the Hopi predict a new dawn of civilization in 2012.

The Hopi are Native American Indians occupying the lands in the Arizona Desert. Their name Hopitu means peaceful people. Little is known about their past but it is thought they have lived in the Black Mesa for around 10,000 years. Like the Mayans and other Mesoamerican Indians their traditions and prophecies are passed down orally from generation to generation. And just like the Mayan, the Hopi predict a new dawn of civilization in 2012.The similarities predicted by the two cultures do not end there. The Hopi also prophecies Earth is soon to go through a period of great purification and that it will be the choice of humanity how extreme the purification process will be. The Hopi say the planet is emerging into the fifth world, but will go through a trial of suffering before a time of “one-heartedness.”

An ancient Hopi Indian prophecy states:

“When the Blue Star Kachina makes its appearance in the heavens, the Fifth World will emerge.”

The Blue Star Kachina is the name the Hopi give to the Sirius, the brightest star in the sky that the ancient Egyptians referred to as Isis or the Dog Star (God Star) the mother of fertility and rebirth. The Hopi say this will be the day of purification.The Hopi believe the Star Kachina will initially be noticed by the entire world when it becomes so bright it appears yellow in the night sky. As it moves slowly across the heavens red pulses from violent explosions will be seen on its surface. As it appears over the North American continent blue rays of fire will be seen emanating from the surface, so brightly people will be able to see in the dark.

The Dogon are a tribe of native Indians from Mali in West Africa and are believed to be of Egyptian descent. What is most astonishing about their culture is that they have a profound knowledge of astronomy that dates back thousands of years and has been passed down from generation to generation through oral traditions.Between 1931 and 1956, two French anthropologists, Marcel Griaule and his student, Germaine Dieterlen conducted extensive research within the Dogon communities during which time they were told about the tribal myths by four village elders. What they were told astonished them.The Dogon knew about the rings of Saturn, the moons of Jupiter and the spiral structure in the Milk Way that reflected the circulation of blood in the human body. But they also had knowledge of the brightest star in the galaxy, Sirius and its companion star Sirius B. The Dogon priests told the anthropologists that Sirius B was a white dwarf planet with an extremely heavy mass and orbited Sirius every 50 years. The facts were true, and the Dogon had known this for thousands of years, even though Sirius B was not visible in the night sky by the human eye and was not discovered by telescope until 1862. Its density was not discovered by American astronomers until 1910.

It is interesting that the Hindu predict the emergence of a new world is prophesied in their calendar, the Kali Yuga, which has an end date of 21 December 2012, just as the more familiar Mayan Long Count calendar does. But the Hindu went one step further and cited certain behavioural patterns would be evident towards the end of days. It is important to note that many of the circumstances the Hindu stated are evident in the world today.

Just as with the Mayan and other ancient civilisations, the Egyptians were master astronomers and astrologers with the ability to predict events on earth by reading the position of the stars, planets and the sun in the sky. Subsequently they made reference in both the Egyptian Book of the Dead and the Kolbrin Bible to a global catastrophe that would invoke major disruption and changes to the planet.

The Egyptians predicted the event would take place in the year 9792 BCE, though didn´t speculate what the damage would be other than to state: “The sun moved from his wonted course, twice rising where it now sets and twice setting where it now rises,” and that “The Old Lion turned around.” This account seems to imply the phenomenon predicted by geologists and other scholars of the pole shift.

Wait a minute , this is just a perfume blog after all , but I hope I shared with you some things you did not know . There has certainly been upheaval in the world of perfume with all of the IFRA restrictions . My interest in new perfume releases no longer exists in fact . Has anything come my way this year ?
If you are still reading - good for you !
I have been getting pretty crafty lately , spinning lots of wool yarn and crocheting a new sweater for myself . I also am suddenly smitten with Irish Lace and began a crochet project with paisley motives which eventually will be a fitted coat . I'll share pics with you if you want to see them .

My old standby fragrances are still with me - our Florida winter has been extremely mild . It was 80 degrees yesterday so I wore my tropical favorite ,
Bruno Acampora Seplasia . Yummy coconutty floral that it is .
Dior Mitzah was my holiday choice . We had a brief cold snap to put me in a Holiday mood and Mitzah has astonishing sillage and longevity . Delicious !
Caron Infini parfum is new to my collection and I have slowly fallen in love with her cold aloof charms . I recently swapped for a big vintage bottle of parfum de toilette and I use it with abandon .

I would love to share samples of these with one lucky reader . Just tell me what you see happening in 2012 , and give me some suggestions for new releases worth trying .

Happy 2012 !!

participatig blogs :

Abigail at ismellthereforeiam

Katie at katiepuckriksmells

Gaia at thenonblonde

Ines at alliam-aredhead.

Linda at underthecupola

Elena at perfumeshrine

Cuarzo Luxury Perfume

2012-01-20T06:38:00.000-05:00

The Cuarzo Signature range is hand-produced, with the devotion and skill required for perfect quality. There may appear slight variations from one item to another, due to natural characteristics of the wood or glass, or in the perfume itself due to the nature of natural essences. Light sensitivy, temperature or maturatuion can also induce slight variations in colour.

Each gem contained in our perfumes has been in direct contact with the different perfume essences during a long period, to allow a complete transfer of energies, and convert the perfume into an elixir.

Each gem has been manually selected according to its energy, and not according to shape and size, which may differ from one gem to another.

Ruby -
top -raspberry , lemon , ginger , blackcurrant , mango mandarin
heart - ylang , jasmine , lily of the valley
base - amber , woods , musc , sandalwood honey

Sapphire -
top - Ceylon Cardamom , pink pepper , mandarin , nutmeg
heart - amber , incense , vetiver , violet leaf , magnolia , iris , sandalwood , oud
base - castor , green moss , musk , tonka , benzoin

Emerald -
top - peach , hyacinth , bergamot , neroli , pink pepper , lavender
heart - magnolia , white hibiscus , ginger , jasmine , lily of the valley , violet leaf
base - musk , white amber , vanilla , cedar

We bring together the naturelness with sophisticated , , the rough stone with the polished gem , the earthly, natural and wild with the human and refined, in an exquisite, unique perfume (of a limited and numbered edition), thus creating one of the noblest and most luxurious perfumes ever created.

from http://www.cuarzosignature.com/gemscollection.html

Happy New Year

2012-01-01T07:18:00.000-05:00

Snow Effect by Lucien Levy Durhmer

A Dozen for Winter

2011-12-24T04:44:00.016-05:00

winter in connecticut from davis galleries

No snow here in Florida , but it's Chritmas Eve and everyone is celebrating .
Happy Happy Holidays to you !

I'm in a rut . Not a snow rut , a fragrance rut . I have my favorites and I can't seem to wear anything else . After years of searching for the best of the best , I have found a wardrobe of scents that are ME , and I am so happy to be in this rut .

The downside ? It has placed a serious cramp in my reviews - nothing measures up . ( IFRA restrictions might have a leeetle something to do with it...)

All of a sudden I can't tolerate Arpege , which is weird . I have a couple of "new" vintage finds to love .

All in all , my collection is as large as ever , but I am selling off those things I don't adore , and using with abandon those things I do adore .
So what is my winter dozen ?

1. Aftelier Pink Lotus remains on top , with it's warm , earthy vibe it never fails to satisfy . Though it only lasts a few hours , I don't mind . It allows me to change to something else in the evening .

2. Roja Dove Diaghilev - I wear this more than any fragrance I have ever owned , and love it for so many reasons . I can put it on in the evening and it is still going strong when I wake up .

3. Guerlain Sous le Vent - Recently I acquired a couple of decants thank goodness , because I was running low . I may never own a full bottle ( sob ) but I adore this year round . It would be number one if it lasted longer , but alas it only hangs around for a couple of hours . So what is a girl to do ? Re-apply , of course...

4. Guerlain Chant d'Aromes - my chypre love rages on , and the older formulations of this are so warm and gorgeous I can wear them year round .

5. DSH Vintage Patchouly - My patchouli love also rages on , and nothing fills the bill like Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Vintage Patchouly in parfum strength , full of resiny warmth and a little tobacco . Scrumptious !

6 . Chanel Coco - Surprise ! I swapped for a mini bottle of Vintage Coco EDT and went through the roof . I KNEW there had to be a Chanel for me , and this is IT .

7. Dior Dioressence and Miss Dior - Although Miss Dior is more rosey and therefore better in the warmer months , both of these vintage chypres have lots of goodness to enjoy during the Holidays .

8 . Roses....in the summer they are too much , but my winter rose collection is making me super happy !
Rosine Rose d'Homme - I wonder if they make a matching body cream ? The other Rosine's are MORE gorgeous in the cream than the spray , IMHO .
Caron Infini - Christen ( who owns knows perfume in Seattle ) sent me an ounce of the pure parfum and got me hooked on this cold-blooded , yet warm hearted rose concoction . Now I own several bottles of vintage EDT and can wear with abandon...
JHAG Citizen Queen - I sold all the bottles from my boutique and only have a small decant left....
what was I thinking ?
Nobile 1942 Anonimo Veneziano takes up where Citizen Queen left off , full of leathery labdanum that lasts and lasts....love !

9. Jacomo Parfum Rare - new to my collection , an oriental-chypre that captures the best of both . I may just wear this on Christmas Day .

10. Comptoir Sud Pacifique Matin Calin - milky-rose candy , the best gourmand EVAH . Like eating Divinity , without the calories...

11 . DSH Cardamom and Kyphi - weird and wonderful and over the top . Everyone around you will wonder what they are smelling .

12 . Shiseido Nombre Noir - No list of mine will ever again be complete without this wonder chypre of dry rose awesomeness .

How many fragrances do you count among your faves ?

Puredistance Winner

2011-12-21T04:29:00.008-05:00

The winner of the Puredistance sample set is...........

CAROL FROM NYC .

Puredistance " M " and a draw

2011-12-16T07:25:00.001-05:00

He's at the "Club" sipping brandy of vintage origin . He might have breifly enjoyed a few puffs on a contraband Cohiba just minutes ago . Because it's an occasion he wears a dark red rose in his lapel , and though he's as sexy as it gets , he has a soft side . It takes takes time to know him , he's complex and moody . One day he'll wear a Saville Row suit , another his ragged biker jacket . Today he's in his favorite jeans and the silk shirt she gave him for his birthday . He looks up and smiles and his lady slides into the dark leather banquette beside him . She's wearing white silk , and she kisses him tenderly and whispers

" happy birthday darling..."

Notes -

Top - Bergamot, Lemon

Heart - Rose, Jasmine

Base - Cinnamon, Patchouli, Mosses, Cistus, Vetiver, Patchouli, Vanilla, Leather, Musk

Though not listed , I am sure there is cumin in the top , and plenty of my favorite resinous labdanum in the base . Gorgeous !

In celebration of my birthday today , I am giving away a luxury boxed set of all three Puredistance samples . Tell me why you want to try them in order to be entered in the draw . Please include a way to contact you .

Happy Holidays and Happy Sniffing...Many thanks to Alina Dreve from Puredistance , for providing the boxed sample set for our drawing .

Lanvin Rumeur vintage extrait

2011-12-13T06:25:00.000-05:00

It's good .

It's gorgeous .

I've been struck dumb .

Created in 1934 by Andree Fraysee , Rumeur is a dark , mysterious foray into mossy , fuity , spicy , leathery : secrets told in the dead of night , whispered when all the world is asleep , remembered for eternity .

Nothing is out of place in Rumeur - nothing exta , nothing left out .

Notes according to Octavian :

peach, plum, dark vanilla, nutmeg, cardamom, clove, civet, tobacco and cuir de russie bases

There are indolic white flowers hidden there , and lots of moss . A chypre dream wrapped in lace and leather and ripe fruit !

The Puredistance " M " has arrived , so watch for my review and give-away Friday , my birthday .

Mona di Orio Tears in Heaven

2011-12-10T05:54:00.002-05:00

Dearest Mona ,
Your creations are your living legacy .
I am so glad I was fortunate enough to meet you in person at Aedes de Venustas and experience your passion and love of fragrance . Your fragrances were virtually unknown back then , and you patiently explained your gorgeous creations to me one by one . I fell in love with Carnation .
Rest in peace with Angels . Heaven is a much finer smelling place now .
scentfully
Carol

Gucci eau de parfum 1

2011-12-10T05:20:00.000-05:00

Created in 1974 by none other than Guy Robert , Gucci No 1 is a vintage chypre with a bright yet lush floral heart . The aldehydes give it a sunny disposition and sillage to spare , the heart is full of green and dry florals , the base is understated , slightly powdery and very light handed . This is all about the flowers , but they are far from girly . This is all woman .
I have owned at least a dozen of the .25 oz mini bottles , bought them at discount malls for years whenever I could find them . But now , thanks to my dear antique- hunter friend Chris I own a full one ounce bottle .
Squeeeeeee.......
Notes :
top- aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, geranium, hyacinth, green notes and rose wood
heart - carnation, heliotrope, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, neroli, ylang-ylang, lilac, orchid and iris
base - patchouli, amber, oakmoss, benzoin, cedar, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla and tonka bean.

Puredistance Sample Set

2011-11-29T10:53:00.000-05:00

Coming soon - a Holiday treat !

I will be reviewing Puredistance " M " by Roja Dove and I will also hold a drawing for the deluxe sample set of all three Puredistance scents ....stay tuned !

image from Luckyscent

Jacomo Parfum Rare

2011-11-28T05:37:00.000-05:00

Jacomo Parfum Rare was released in 1987 , yet hearkens back twenty years , reminding me on first application of Estee Lauder Private Collection . Thick and green , powdery and spicy with grassy green vetiver very prominent .Though I'm not crazy about vetiver , this is blended so masterfully with rosewood and jasmine it is lovely . As this opening phase relaxes the sandalwood comes forward and dances with the orris , reminding me of Chanel Bois des Isles . Another phase passes and the labdanum heavy chypre base plays it's famous chord accompanied by warm golden amber notes . Very unusual , interesting and chic . A wonderful addition to my collection !

Notes from a tester bottle -
"BASES ET ABSOLUS: bois de rose, cardomome de Ceylan, jasmin d'Egypte, iris de Florence, rose de Mai, vetiver, oeillet d'Inde (marigold), coriandre, immortelle, mousses de chene (oakmoss), santal, patchouli"

Sabon Femme

2011-11-21T04:41:00.000-05:00

With Holiday overeating on the horizon , it's time to consider what scent to wear for the festivities .

Gourmand scents are a shoe-in . But not for me .

I try , I seriously keep trying to wear vanilla but I just can't .

And Femme by Sabon is a big ole powder puff of vanilla in a woodsy box trimmed with a jasmine blossom and - bleargh . No can do . It's girly and soft , not particularly long lasting and should please those sitting around the Thanksgiving table around you - nothing challenging or reflex inducing . Me ? I won't be wearing it unfortunately . Many thanks to Musette for her constant care and fun packages , but this one will get passed on to another who will wear it !

Back to the search...any gourmand suggestions ?

Maybe Washington Tremlett Clove Absolute , I haven't sniffed that in ages...

Top -ylang-ylang and bergamot.
Heart - jasmine and clove
Base -vanilla, sandalwood and musk

Those who would like a decant of the Yendi , please make sure to e-mail me your adress !
Also , check out my sale in the boutique . ( Link on the upper right hand side )

Capucci Yendi vintage 1975

2011-11-15T05:33:00.000-05:00

Yendi turns out to be a classic , bright green chypre . Funny I had never heard of it , but a sample crossed my desk from some unknown source and it's bright color caught my eye immediately ! On first sniff , it's almost minty - so fresh and green . It posesses a luminous sillage , a bouquet of sunlit flowers beaming with aldehydes . So well blended no one flower stands out , but these are young spring blossoms , stems and leaves touched with dew and sunshine . The peach and raspberry sound scary , but inreality they just amp the fresh dewy feeling and magnify the aldehydes . Yet , as soon as this touches skin it warms with an animalistic musk and cedar combination , powdered soft by orris and dare I say , a slightly raunchy orchid ? If I had to guess , Tom Ford was inspired to create Black Orchid when he stumbled on a vintage bottle of Yendi...
The honey accentuates the slightly naughty nature , and later the gorgeous sandalwood recalls the fruity opening . There is no patchouli listed , and I don't really smell any , but the moss is rich and bittersweet , the amber just a touch of candied warmth .
I ended up loving my sample so much I went on a search for a bottle . It should arrive any day from a frequent swapping pal , Anna ! If you have longed to try this rare beauty , comment and I will send you a sample ...

Top notes: Aldehydes, bergamot, hyacinth, peach, raspberry

Heart notes: Rose, honey, lily of the valley, cyclamen, clove bud, orris, orchid

Base notes: Sandalwood, musk, cedarwood, amber, styrax, vanilla, moss

At right , a sculptural , entrance-making Roberto Capucci creation .

Capucci's first fragrance ( 1967 )seems to be Capucci pour Homme , a leather chypre I would love to get my hands on . I could not find a nose credited with his fragrances .

Holiday Plans

2011-11-11T04:55:00.000-05:00

How can this be ? November is here and I am planning Thanksgiving Dinner for our ever growing family .
The first thing I had to do was buy a large emough tablecloth for my gi-normous Dining Room table . I am crocheting an ecru lace cloth that eventually will be an heirloom . But not this year - I will have to crochet another seven hundred rosettes before I can stich them all together...you get the idea !
The instuctions call for two different rosettes , one larger and one smaller , but I am going to make them all large . The finished cloth will be about 51 X 120 inches , about 750 rosettes .
Starting at center, ch 8, join with sl st.

Rnd 1: Ch 5, (tr in ring, ch 1) 15 times. Join to 4th ch of ch-5.
Rnd 2: Sl st in next sp, ch 7; (tr in next ch-1 sp, ch 3) 15 times. Join to 4th ch of ch-7.
Rnd 3: Sc in next sp, ch 4, 3 tr in same sp, holding back the last loop of each tr on hook;
thread over and draw through all loops on hook, ch 1 to fasten (a cluster), * Ch 4, 4 tr in
next sp, holding back the last loop of each tr on hook; finish as for a cluster. Repeat from
* around. Join last ch-4 to tip of first cluster.
Rnd 4: Ch 6, * sc in next sp, ch 3, dc in tip of next cluster, ch 3. Repeat from * around; join
last ch-3 to 3rd ch of ch-6.
Rnd 5: Ch 10, * dc in next dc, ch 7. Repeat from * around. Join last ch-7 to 3rd ch of ch-10.
Rnd 6: Ch 6, tr in same place as sl st, * 7 dc in next ch-7 sp, in next dc make tr, ch 2 and
tr. Repeat from * around; sl st in 4th ch of ch-6.
Rnd 7: Sl st in next sp, ch 6, dc in same sp, * ch 3, sc in 4th dc of 7-dc group, ch 3. In next
ch-2 sp make dc, ch 3 and dc. Repeat from * around. Join last ch-3 with sl st to 3rd ch of
ch-6.
Rnd 8: Sl st in next sp, ch 5; in same place as sl st make dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2 and dc. * Ch 3,
sc in next sc, ch 3. In next sp between 2 dc make (dc, ch 2) 3 times and dc. Repeat from *
around. Join last ch-3 to 3rd ch of ch-5. Fasten off.

I have been wearing my vintage Diors - Miss Dior parfum , Diorling , Dioressence ( when I am not wearing my daily go-to scent Diaghilev . I am hopelessly in love with it and never want to wear anything else . I have a tiny decant of Guerlain Sous le Vent which I also adore . I just swapped for another decant which should be arriving soon , so I will be wearing my beloved Sous le Vent a little more during the Holidays .
There will be about a dozen of us here for Thanksgiving and we will have a traditional dinner of Roast Turkey with stuffing , potatoes , gravy , sweet potatoes , Acini di pepi salad , an assortment of pies .
Any ideas for original and unusual vegetable dishes ? Usually I do green beans but I'd like to do another vegetable too...

Chanel Coco

2011-10-31T07:15:00.001-04:00

fall 2010 runways

Created in 1984 , Coco is a fragrance that slipped under my radar in the years I was in the mountains , no TV , no electricity and no temptation . Chanel being my Mom's signature house , those fragrances never caught my attention anyway . Even to this day , there has not been a one I wanted to own .
Until recently .
My dear friend Chris gifted me again with more fragrant gems from her Mother's estate - a vintage mini of Coco parfum ! Classified as an oriental , it definitely has the warm spicy rose/amber accord . But I get so much more - tender fruits , the prominent labdanum I love , some round fluffy opopponax , and later a touch of the chocolate-y patchouli I crave . I started haunting Eb*y for a vintage bottle , I don't think this mini will last ....
and what a perfect Holiday Fragrance to create some new scent associations . Coco , you are my new BFF .

Notes -
Top : coriander, pomegranate blossom, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine and bulgarian rose
Heart: mimose, cloves, orange blossom, clover and rose
Base : labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet and vanilla.

EDIT : I forgot to mention : to my nose this is a ringer for Nobile 1942 Anonimo Veneziano !!

Names I Can't Remember.....

2011-10-27T07:17:00.000-04:00

Is there a limit to the length of perfume names ?

Obviously not .

Why doesn't someone name a new release Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuakitanatahu ?

Wikipedia cites this as the longest place name on Earth . It means hill in Maori .

So be it .

An even longer version, Taumata-whakatangihanga-koauau-o-Tamatea-haumai-tawhiti-ure-haea-turi-pukaka-piki-maunga-horo-nuku-pokai-whenua-ki-tana-tahu, has 105 letters and means The hill of the flute playing by Tamatea — who was blown hither from afar, had a slit penis, grazed his knees climbing mountains, fell on the earth, and encircled the land — to his beloved .
ho-kay then .

Long Fragrance names , write these down...
A Lab on Fire L'Anonyme ou OP-1475-A
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio for Men Acqua for Life Edition
Lolita Lempicka Midnight Couture Black Eau de Minuit
Shiseido Majolica Majorca Majoromantica
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud No. 04855AM

Thierry Mugler has released a limited edition collection and the names are quite long , although not THAT long , in comparison .

Collection Le Goût du Parfum:

Angel Eau de Parfum sublimée de Poudre de Cacao Amer

Alien Eau de Parfum sublimée de Caramel au Beurre Salé

Womanity Eau de Parfum sublimée de Chutney de Figues

A Men Eau de Parfum sublimée d'un Concentré de Piments Rouges

Got it ?

I respect Octavian over at 1000Fragrances , and if he raves about a fragrance - I SMELL IT , and he raves about the new Angel Eau de Parfum sublimée de Poudre de Cacao Amer . So I am on a mission to get ahold of some , I love good chocolate and have always wished to find a creamy , milky , gourmand chocolate scent that works . I'll keep you posted .

Any fragrance names that you can't remember ?

Serge Lutens Vitriol d' Oeillet

2011-10-25T06:27:00.000-04:00

Have I mentioned that Monsieur Lutens is a cerebral kind of guy ?
Maybe that is why I have a problem with his scents . They are so brainy , so well thought out . For me , they lack heart , in a soft wearable kind of way .
So , it is not surprising I didn't expect to love a scent with VITRIOL in the name . ( latin vitrium : glass ) . When I think of vitriol I think poison , or at least sharp .
Now let us say he had tongue-in-cheek when he thought that up . It's not easy to come up with a truly GREAT name for a scent amid the plethora of already used monikers . I understand this .
I truly LOVE Nombre Noir , it being a rather petrified wood rose , and oh if he would revisit that and stay away from the stewed prunes in curry stuff , I'd be so happy .
I digress .
Thanks to Dear Ines , I have a decant of Vitriol d'Oeillet and now I can smell for myself , non ?
Well knock me down with a feather because I don't get any pepper at all . This is cool , aromatic , and reminds me of Guerlain Le Dandy !! What ? There must be some lavender in there . Or I must be crazy , because I don't smell anything like the other reviewers . Is it original ? No . Will I buy a bottle ? No .
But I like it , and I will get back to you about the drydown .
notes -black pepper, pimento, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, pink pepper , paprika , clove , cedar

Andy Tauer Tableau de Parfums Miriam

2011-10-20T08:57:00.000-04:00

Secretly I have been loving Miriam for months . I got an advance sniff from an insider and the scent strip has been billowing with beautiful , sparkling aldehydes ever since .

I'm not sure why I love aldehydes so much - at least the ones I love , remind me of my favorite beverage - Mimosa . In that way , Miriam has alot in common with Robert Piguet's re-release of Baghari . Just so bubbly and lightly fruity - the sparkle never fades . Yet the background of creaminess - fluffy , fatty , filling as whipped cream , the rose/orris/ylang/sandalwood in perfect proportion is like a hug from myself .

Beautiful !

notes :

bergamot, sweet orange, geranium, violet blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaf,

lavender, vanilla, orris root, sandalwood

Serge Lutens De Profundis

2011-10-17T05:22:00.052-04:00

OMIGOD , WANT !!
Yeah , that was my original reaction way back in May when I saw the color of the jus and that beautiful goth lettering . And I'm not a Sergie girl AT ALL .
The reviews , well not so much love there . But finally , Dear Ines has sent me a sample of the Paris Exclusive and I'm ready to put on skin . At first whiff the other day , I liked it . Not too woody-chemically , not too over the top , not a whiff of that awful stewed fruit...promising !

Available only at the Salon du Palais Royal in Paris in the famous bell jar , De Profundis has that je ne sais quois that makes for a lemming , but chances are I will never own a bottle . And that's okay . But I want to love the jus , just because I want to love and worship and adore at least one Lutens ( I love the IDEA of Borneo and own a decant which I never actually wear .) .

De Profundis " from the depths * , and also " of the profound " which takes me to " makes one think..."

The sleeper must awake!!!

From the depths of the grave
There is a journey to make
And there is somebody to save
hear me oh God, for I here stand
Blindfolded and lost in the illusion
Cast by the spiced golden sand
I dwell, within myself in Delusion
by Daniel Conceição

So , does the Lutens creation make me think , and if it does , what do I think OF it ?
Candy . It's quite sweet on opening , but with a pleasant tart contrast , very wearable .
Violets and a papery almost nutty chrysanthemum up close , but the incense wafts from the depths and spreads around me in the most elusive , addictive way . Lovely !
And for the bottle alone , along woth the incredible color of the jus...but this is not dark nor complex , it is soft green hidden under sweet violets with a ghost trail if incense and a soapy detergent drydown .

De Profundis EDP 75ml – € 120
Exclusively at the Salons du Palais Royal (Paris), Released September 1st 2011

Aftelier Cacao , Jasmine and a winner...

2011-10-15T06:06:00.000-04:00

Aftelier Cacao is a dark orange dipped in luscious dark chocolate - not too sweet . After the cacao note fades a little , this becomes a dark green jasmine . Very realistic , true to life and delicious . There is something else there in the base , maybe cistus that takes this almost mulchy , not quite leafy and quite naughty !

notes : orange , cacao , jasmine

Aftelier Jasmine is at the other end of the spectrum - a sunny , tart and innocent flower . Blood orange is one of my favorite top notes , so lush and unusual and it is perfect here , supporting that fruity jasmine . Simple and stunning . This is a solid , which adds that wonderful waxy , earthy nuance and also adds to it's longevity . Lovely !!

notes : jasmine , blood orange , grapefruit

And the winner of the drawing is....

SOLACE !!
Happy Birthday , and e-mail me your adress .

Thanks for playing/reading along , and many thanks to Mandy for her generosity .
Thanks for stopping by Mandy !!

Aftelier Pink Lotus

2011-10-14T07:30:00.000-04:00

UPDATE : The gorgeous aged sandalwood in this is so profound , I have been spoiled forever....earthy , chewy , yet sweet and smooth . Heartbreaking !!
This is a reprint from 2009 , but since I am giving away a mini bottle I wanted to include this short review . Pink Lotus has been discontinued , but I have 2 bottles for myself and joyfully want to share a little of what Mandy sent me !

There is a stillness on the edge of morning that is profound . It is not light , and yet it is not dark .

A ray of light splits the dawn and up from out of the stillness , and the mud , an unopened bud breaks the water's indigo surface....the earth is ripe and dirty . It cares not if you approve .

Slowly , the stem rises , unfurling its delicate pink petals to the sun....smiling a sweet serene smile . Graceful , translucent , with a little bit of mud on her skirt .

photo: my sandalwood bead mala

notes :
pink lotus , aged sandalwood

I have heard originally this was a custom scent made for Madonna .

Aftelier Alchemy

2011-10-13T07:33:00.001-04:00

Of course Mandy needed a fragrance called Alchemy - after her groundbreaking and consummately informative book , Essence and Alchemy . After her years of creating bespoke perfumes , Mandy decided she wanted to create a fragrance using the best and most popular fragrance notes . Great idea !

What I love about a solid perfume is the creamy , waxy character . Beeswax adds a complex , animalic nuance all it's own .

" My solid perfumes, in a base of organic unfiltered beeswax and jojoba oil, blend with your body chemistry, leaving a veil of fragrance on the skin. Each perfume is housed in a sterling silver case of my design -- not too deep and with rounded corners – that is fabricated by an artisan in Taxco, Mexico. The double solids actually provide three fragrances, as the two blend beautifully together on the skin to create a third perfume. Compact and unspillable, solid perfumes are ideal for travel. " - Mandy Aftel

Notes :

Top: black pepper, bitter orange.

Heart: rose, jasmine.

Base: vanilla, amber.

So what does it smell like ? The jasmine definitely jumps out at me - lush , sunny , animalic , darkened by red rose and pepper . This is not frilly , but rather very sexy , grounded always with that distinctive beeswax and made cuddly with ambery vanilla . There's a touch of leathery labdanum that reinforces the dark , animalic feeling contrasting perfectly the sunny jasmine .When the solid is applied generously to my skin , that tart orange floats deliciously above the florals...What's not to love ?

image : this engraving combines elements of alchemy, Christianity and the Kabbalah, and it foreshadows Rosicrucianism. It is from Khunrath's 1595 book, Amphitheatrum Sapientiae Aeternae ("Amphitheater of Eternal Wisdom"). The Hebrew lettering and fiery rose petals are artistic but it's the naked woman at the center of the red flames that matters...

Aftelier Muse solid

2011-10-12T04:22:00.001-04:00

FABULOUS !

If you love labdanum , you will adore this . Lime green , clean , with a leathery yet uplifting resinous labdanum heightened with another of my favorite smells , rosemary blossoms .

Mandy describes this as ambery , but I detect no cloying vanilla here . I just love this .

Notes

Top: lime.

Heart: clary sage.
Base: labdanum, rosemary absolute.

www.aftelier.com/
drawing on Friday - a selection of samples including the gorgeous discontinued Pink Lotus ( 2 ml mini , value : $50 )

Mandy Aftel Lumiere

2011-10-11T06:04:00.001-04:00

Luminous by Raipun

Mandy Aftel created Lumiere and released it to coincide with her ground-breaking one woman show in NYC titled Living Perfume . ( Spring 2009 )

And perfume is indeed a living thing which vibrates and connects us to the most fundamental energies of our innermost selves . That Mandy was honored by Henri Bendel in this way is a testament to her talent and devotion to her craft , that of Natural Perfumery and it's relevance to our lives today .

I have not yet met Mandy in person and look forward to that day . Yet we have connected through my love of her fragrances , and last week she sent me some samples , which I will be sharing with my readers . Remember to comment this week , to enter a drawing for three samples of her fragrances . ( Drawing Friday

October 14th )

Lumiere , light...how does one translate this intangible concept into scent ?

This opens dark , lush like overripe fruit but soon lifts and softens . There is nothing more complex and fruity than blue lotus , but it has an uplifting and airy quality that really comes through here . Rare sweet Boronia also has a fruity nuance which supports the dark fruit theme . Wispy yet slightly bitter tea accents the incense , which floats away like a sigh...Mandy has turned the fragrance pyramid upside down...!

Top: phenyl ethyl acetate.

(Odor: Fruity, Floral, Rose - use: Has a light anisic, fruity, sweet rose odor.
Very often used to modify heavier rose notes).
Heart: honeysuckle, blue lotus, boronia.

Base: green tea, frankincense , ambergris.

“As potent as it can be, smell is the most neglected of our senses. Rational precepts and the industrial age have separated our minds, bodies and spirits, and further separated us from nature. Natural Perfume, created from natural materials and aromatics is a multi-layered phenomenon: In a breath, we are able to reconnect with the natural world and ourselves in new and profound ways.” - Mandy Aftel

Drawing Friday for a selection of Aftelier samples .
www.aftelier.com/

Space NK Melodrama

2011-10-08T05:48:00.000-04:00

Created by Christopher Sheldrake , Melodrama hearkens back to the era of Aldehydic chypres , sparkling at first like a sip of champagne , softened with white flowers and an oddball touch of lavender ( which at first I thought might be rosemary , it's a green , herbal jolt that plays nicely against the soft white of orange blossom ) . Much more tender than Lentheric Tweed , soapier than Coty Chypre , Melodrama isn't really dramatic at all , but it is a nod to the chypre era and very wearable . It has been discontinued since it'r release in about 2005 , was sold quite reasonably at the time , but now quite hard to find . Thanks for sharing Dixie !!

Notes : bergamot, orange blossom, French lavender, pink roses, heliotrope, gardenia, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli and vetiver

airbrush Luminae by Andrew Gonzalez , my favorite artist of all time

Next week is Mandy Aftel Week , I will be doing a series of reviews from samples Mandy sent me . ( she put them all in an adorable round mini-tin , and included some of her solids . GIVE-AWAY time too...)

Paloma Picasso EDP vintage

2011-10-06T06:19:00.000-04:00

Vibrant , bold , unmistakably vintage....Paloma Picasso is a perfume that could easily wear you if you don't know who you are . Opening with tons of roses and oakmoss and a bouquet of bossy carnations on the side....this is spiced up with coriander , angelica , bergamot oh my...what a chypre ! Asoupcon of wonderfulness , opening slightly fruity , very lush , complex but not too sweet . As this relaxes on skin , it's spicy side gets a touch of powder , but never quite soft . The lasting power is phenomenal , the kind of scent you just won't find anymore . My bottle is all black , one of the earliest released ( no clear window ) . I have heard the reformulations should be avoided ...

Notes -

Top : bergamot, lemon, neroli and ambrette and hyacinthe ,carnation , coriander , angelica

Heart : Ylang, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine, Mimosa, Coriander, Clove and Cilantro

Base : oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, amber, iris, sandalwood, musk, civet , castoreum and honey

Fall is falling...warm woods

2011-10-03T04:53:00.002-04:00

Finally ! It feels like fall in Florida , the mornings are crisp and cool and the air-conditioning didn't come on once during the night ! I had to go find my fuzzy slippers when I got up , and I went searching for a warm and woody scent to wear...

What did I decide ? Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond on one arm , Miller Harris En Sens de Bois on the other !

Something deep in my DNA wants woody scents when it's cool . I miss the days of chopping firewood , cooking on a wood stove , tending the home fire .
UPDATE : oh yeah , now I remember why I don't wear either of these....the bois Blond gets screechy , does not develop much and hits that one note for waaaa-aaay too long . the En Sens ? Too too much vetiver . Gotta scrub . Then I will put on some dark roses....like Citizen Queen and Rosine Rose d'Homme . Or maybe Anonimo Veneziano...was this a roses post ? No , no it wasn't...

Today is Mom's Birthday - Happy Birthday Mom !

image from raptitude.com

So let's see if we can make a top ten Fall Scents List , what sounds good to you this week ?
1. Caron Infini parfum - a new obsession
2. Dior Mitzah - golden , almost edible
3. Mona di Orio OUD - warm , sweet , wonderful
4. Claudie Pierlot Mon Premier - spicy , odd , perfect
5. Guerlain Vol de Nuit parfum - memories of Italy...
6. Tom Ford Italian Cypress - green , woody , sexy
7. Fresh Index Patchouli Pure - 'nuff said
8. Huitieme art FAREB - genious !
9. Creed Jasmine Imperitrice Eugenie - jasmine and sandalwood ? I think I will...!
10. DSH Vintage Patchouly ( always , always , always...)

Getaway...

2011-10-02T11:01:00.000-04:00

I need to get away....

image from sharonadesigns.com

Mona di Orio OUD

2011-09-30T06:50:00.002-04:00

photo Vientiang , Laos capitol city

One word ?

STUNNING !

If you have ever wanted to love oud , but just couldn't find it's friendly side - this is it ! Interesting , beautifully balanced , sunny , resinous , only slightly metallic , fantastically long lasting and complex . Oh yes , and FBW . My little decant is going to have to last me awhile ...

Mona has revealed her genious once again by pairing oud with osmanthus , two difficult notes for me to love and yet together- gorgeous !! There is quite a bit of patchouli there , which of course makes me happy , and a deep rich musc that makes this so easy to wear and sexy too !

Elimi , Green Mandarin , Petitgrain Paraguay, Osmanthus absolu, Nagarmotha India, Laotian oudh essential oil , Musc, Indonesian patchouli , Amber Gris , atlas Cedar

Dior Patchouli Imperiale - UPDATE

2011-09-26T05:41:00.000-04:00

As announced on Scented Salamander...be still my beating heart !
Dry , spicy , slightly smoky patchouli that has an AMAZING diffusive sillage and long-lasting character , Dior's patchouli is impressive and wonderful for a patchouli lover like me . it somehow reminds me of Mitzah , in the way it completely surrounds me in delicate sillage and a slightly prickly sensation . In fact , the two would probably be wonderful layered...
Many thanks to Claudia for the split , my 10 ml will last me a long time .
It is a front and center addition to my patchouli collection .

top - Sicilian mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, Russian coriander

heart - Indonesian patchouli

base -cedarwood and an essence of sandalwood

You notice I have not been posting very regularly ....my budget has not allowed many purchases .
I am totally loving the Infini parfum Christen sent me ,
and soon I hope the Mona di Orio OUD will arrive ....
What have you purchased lately ?

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Pandora

2011-09-19T04:16:00.001-04:00

In the tradition of the first woman Pandora who opened the box and let out all sorts of mischief , I opened my sample of Pandora and spritzed away....but unlike Pandora , I was not instructed not to open the box !

Indeed , according to mythology , Pandora was created with an unknown purpose : to cause mischief . She was breathed into life by the four winds . Zeus then instructed the other Olympians to each present her with a gift : Aphrodite gave her beauty, grace and desire; Hermes, cunning and boldness; Demeter blessed her with a green thumb; Athena taught her to spin; Apollo taught her to sing sweetly and play the lyre; Poseidon's gave her a pearl necklace and promised her that she would never drown.

But she was foolish and idly curious , and when presented with an ornately carved box by Hermes , and told never to open it , guess what she did ?

Dawn has created a fragrance deserving of the name Pandora . Bold it is and beautiful , with a fierce green opening as leafy as her garden . There it stays - green , green , green , slightly salty like the sea until finally the scent relaxes into earthy patchouli and moss . A true beauty , wild and difficult , with strength , character and at the end of the day , a little tenderness .

TOP: ruby fruits (botanical), bergamot, aldehyde, spice notes, ozone, violet leaf absolute, davana, cassis bud, green and pink pepper

HEART: rose de mai absolute, juhi jasmine, linden blossom absolute, yerba mate absolute, cabrueva wood, orris co2, green tea absolute

BASE: mousse de saxe accord (botanical), cyperus, fossilized amber absolute, ambergris tincture, patchouli co2, vetiver co2, muhuhu, Australian sandalwood, tonka bean absolute, green oakmoss, vanilla absolute

Coming up...

2011-09-14T09:37:00.000-04:00

There's not been much new stuff on my desk to review lately...plus I have been selling out my perfume inventory at greatly reduced prices . Lots of packing and taping and mailing going on ! My sale is over now and soon , there should be a few fun things arriving in my mailbox . Sorry for the lack of new posts ...other things just got in the way !
Back soon with reviews of some Indian Oils from my friend Paco , and Mona di Orio's OUD ( so looking for that , I'm tired of standing by the mailbox !! ) plus a split of Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cherie and Dior Patchouli Imperiale...my patchouli addiction rages on...
What are you wearing these days ? Today I wore DSH Parfum de Grasse , and I'm testing her new creation , Pandora ( a mousse de saxe creation ...) . Mostly I have been wearing Seplasia , and slathering my dry skin with the matching body cream , so rich and fragrant !
Finally the days are getting shorter and cooling a bit . My kitties love to romp in the wet grass early in the morning !

Whatcha Wearin ' ? Gucci No 1

2011-09-12T11:12:00.000-04:00

My last visit to Seattle was in 2001 , right before 911 . I had just sold my first espresso bar , Crucial Coffee , in preparation for sailing to the Bahamas . The one thing I wanted to do before moving to the Islands , was visit my friends and favorite places in Seattle .

Our hotel was near Edgewood Mall , so I made the perfunctory visit to the perfume store . It was a good one , I was surprised to discover ....they had Creed at discount and tons of minis , which is where I discovered about a dozen minis of the long discontinued Gucci No 1 , in the square bottle with the green , white and red stripes . I have loved this for so long it is hard to describe , but to me it is all woman . A little delicate lily-of-the-valley and alot of sexy patchouli .

I have almost used them all up , one half full and one unopened left . I never see it anymore , the top has gone a little sour on the ones I have left and I may never buy more , but this was "me" for a long time .

Vintage Revlon Charlie

2011-09-09T09:02:00.001-04:00

Released in 1973 , and a fragrance I never wore , Charlie is a sparkling floral that won a FiFi Award in 1974 ! I'm not sure why I ignored the scent - it was sort of over-advertised at the time and I looked down upon it.... My bad , my loss . ( Estee Lauder Private Collection was my signature scent at the time . )

During my friend Chris' lengthy stay in Cleveland ( taking care of her elderly father ) she found a stash of her Mother's fragrances ( her Mother has been gone for a few years now...) . Always the sharing/caring friend she offered her finds to me and I gleefully accepted the vintage , unopened bottle of Charlie .

top :
lemon blossom , hyacinth and peach.
heart :
rose, orrisroot, lily-of-the-valley, cyclamen and carnation
base :
vanilla, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk and cedar

beautiful Blue...

2011-09-06T04:06:00.001-04:00

Carol Gillot does it again with her tres chic watercolor painting .

I just love cobalt blue glass ....Today I am wearing the rather demanding Guerlain Parure ,

rich plummy roses .

A little sharp , a little sweet , alotta chypre...

Created in 1975 , Parure has been discontinued and is getting rather hard to find -

Well of course I love it ( it's a chypre...) and will enjoy my little decant while it lasts...

Notes -

Top -plum, bergamot, green notes;

heart- lily of the valley, rose, iris, lilac, jasmine, narcissus;

base- oak moss, spices, amber, rose and patchouli

Dana 20 Carats

2011-09-02T11:02:00.000-04:00

Original notes :

frankincense, myrrh, musk, patchouli, rose, jasmine, clove and oak moss.

Once the Dana trademark expired , the fragrance became the property of Suzanne Thierry in 1952 . It is certain the scent was reformulated ( 1975 ) , and no longer contained the gilded flecks of gold leaf floating in the juice. For over fifty years, 20 CARATS remained a best selling luxury scent and was sold in high-end department stores until it was finally discontinued in 1987

Notes:

classified as a fougere, a rich, spicy, floral with a blend of oakmoss, fruits, carnation, orange, heliotrope , patchouli, rose, jasmine, clove, cinnamon , frankincense, myrrh, musk, lavender, herbs and grasses

my bottle , from my friend Chris , is the newer formulation . The lavender sort of ruins the opening - it doesn't fit with the rich drydown . Once I get past the lavender ( and other notes may have gone off a bit , creating the initial dissonance...) the incensey green drydown is gorgeous . I'd love to own an older bottle , it contained real flakes of gold...!

Mikhail Barishnikov Misha

2011-09-01T06:18:00.000-04:00

Released in 1989 , Misha - the nickname of Mikhail - is a romantic old scholl chypre with floral and fruity nuances and plenty of patchouli / oakmoss in the base . Only the amber gets a little screechy for me , the rest of the composition is lovely and well blended . my sample , from a generous swapper , is the vintage EDT . I bet the parfum is just gorgeous !

notes -

top -bergamot, peach and lemon

heart -Jasmine, rose, raspberry, carnation and cinnamon

base - vetiver, oak moss, patchouli and amber

parfum bottle image from eb*y seller asenseforscents

Au Revoir August...

2011-08-31T07:39:00.000-04:00

Ahh August...the seasons change , children return to school , the wheel of life turns and we look back as we move forward .

The garden withers and turns brown as seeds ripen with their promise of another summer . The air is scented with a certain melancholy , and I love fall as the leaves change color , fall to the ground , the air turns crisp and golden like the garden .

I have realized over the years that I love certain scents no matter the season . Chypres , patchouli , sandalwood , iris , and resinous labdanum . For years I thought I loved amber but it doesn't love me , it tends to get sour and screechy .( Exception - L'Artisan L'eau d'Ambre - spicy powdery goodness on my skin ! )

Chanel ? Fuggetabouddit , I have tried and NONE of them work for my skin . Guerlain ? The chypre's are heaven on me - Parure , Chant d'Aromes , Sous le Vent...the rest , not so much .

Incense ? I have tried and tried , but I just don't reach for them and swap them away eventually . In a candle oh yeah , I love my home to smell like pine , frankincense , sandalwood...and one of my favorite ways to scent my home is with white sage and or sweetgrass .

There are a few fall releases I am really looking forward to - I
am in on a split of Mona di Orio OUD , waiting patiently to get a sniff of Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cherie par Camille , and there are a few others . I don't think I will be able to attend Sniffapalooza this year ( I'm heartbroken ) so I'll have to be creative finding ways to sniff all the enticing things coming up .

I'm still wearing Diaghilev regularly , along with Acampora Seplasia ( I layer the body cream and parfum and it is scrumptious in the heat ) , and Aftelier Pink Lotus remains my HG ( Mandy sent me a complimentary bottle since it is being discontinued and she knows how much I love it...you are my girlcrush Mandy ! ) . I dabble in my collection of patchouli every night , it seems to be a bedtime comfort scent for me .

Whatcha wearin' as the season's change ?

image from Voynich Manuscript

YSL Opium parfum

2011-08-29T06:24:00.002-04:00

1977...dico was the rage , and NYC was the epicenter of cool when the doors of Studio 54 opened on 54th Street . Called simply the Studio , the most famous disco of all time had been a soundstage ( from which the famous Johnny Carson show , among others , were broadcast ) and later the home of WEST END RECORDS , arguably the world's greatest disco label .

Opened by owners Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager on April 26th 1977 . Studio 54 was an immediate smash , filled with stars and swingers and drugs . Already successful restaurant owners ( The Enchanted Garden in Queens ) , Ian and Steve hired two resident DJ's , Nicky Siano from the Enchanted Garden , and Richie Kaczor .

About a year and $700,000 later , the club opened to the throbbing sounds of Disco Devil's Gun by C.J &Co. , famous names lined up at the door waiting to get in...PR manager Carmen d'Alessio had invited about 5000 of the right people ...even some with invitations couldn't get in . The doorman Marc Benecke knew how to mix just the right crowd , and he had to want to let you in , or you stayed outside . From Bianca Jagger and Grace Slick to Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali , Studio 54 was the place to be in 1977 .

That same year saw the release of the big glitterball scent by Jean Loius Sieuzac that is Opium . I am embarrassed to tell you I had never smelled it . Oh I knew it existed , knew it's reputation ...but back in those years I was a back-to-the-land hippie , hated disco , made granola and grew my own food . My groove was Bob Marley .

YSL Opium ?

A base-heavy scent with lots of opopponax and myrhh that harkens back to the 20's and 30's scents of Coty , Rochas and Hattie Carnegie ! Barely discernable florals , a rich plummy top note with a slight herbal tang....but this is all about the heavy lingering almost edible base .

I enjoyed it for a few hours , even in the Florida heat . This big sillage monster can stand up to the melange of body heat and sex that was Studio 54 . I bet they got along famously !

We're looking down the barrel

O the devil's gun

Nowhere to run

We've gotta make the stand

Aainst the devil's gun

Better make a move now

Well, well you know there

An't no time to lose now

Oh well, his finger's on the trigger

He's waiting to deliver

Can we ever figure out the way

T make the people shout

Get a new direction

Wellj, well, well another resurrection

Well now don't wait hesitate

Or it's gonna be too late

Flames are getting higher

Got to jump out of the fire...

( Devil's Gun by CJ & co. lyrics )

notes -

top -hesperidies , mandarin, , plum , bergamot, lily of the valley , coriander, pepper, bay leaf

heart -jasmine, carnation, myrrh , clove , cinnamon , peach , orris

base - vanilla , amber, sweet myrrh , patchouli. , sandalwood , vetiver, opopanax, labdanum, castoreum, incense, musk, and tolu

Jean Desses Celui parfum - " the one... "

2011-08-26T06:32:00.003-04:00

Created in 1938 , Celui is long discontinued . This gorgeous fragrance is classified as a feminine leather chypre , and is available at auction sites online in EDC and pure parfum . My sample was sent by a swapper friend - I actually didn't want to open it - and fall in love...

But I did .

They don't make them like this anymore .

The topnotes may have degraded a little , this has a whiff of celery - green at first . As it dissipates , the rich and heady floral heart is melancholy , nuanced , creamy , not too sweet ...in a word : beautiful !

Slowly the restrained yet animalic basenotes reveal themselves - softened and rounded by heliotrope . There is no overdose here , everything is balanced , chic , sexy and real .

notes -aldehydes , jasmine , rose , gardenia , iris, violet ,heliotrope , civet , ambergris

image of 1/8 oz flacon of pure parfum from eb*y

Dior Diorella

2011-08-25T05:00:00.000-04:00

Diorella , another classic chypre created by Edmund Roudnitska , is on the lighter side . I was surprised to find this had not been released until 1972 . Fresh but not aquatic , green but not bitter , floral but not very , a chypre but not " old lady " , Diorella is reduced to it's smallest dimension , the quintessence of Roudnitska . This is a simplistic scent while retaining personality in spades . The fruits are there , but not shouting at you , the herbs are fresh and tangy . The base becomes just a little dusky - the clove and patchouli are a match made in heaven here - the perfect sunset at the end of a perfect day .

My sample is probably a newer formulation but it's nice . Will I find an older bottle ?

You can bet on it !

Notes ( from Basenotes )

Top -

Sicilian Lemon, Peach, basil, Italian bergamot, melon, Green Notes

Middle Notes-
Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Violet, Rose Bud, Carnation, Cyclamen, Oakmoss

Base Notes -
Vanilla, Clove, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk, Patchouli

Raphael Replique EDT

2011-08-23T07:35:00.004-04:00

Green , mossy woody wonder , filling the air with it's complexity - vintage Replique reminds me a little of the vintage Arpege extrait I own . Replique is a little sweeter , though this is the EDT . The peppery / aldehydic opening sparkles and fades quickly over the abstract floral heart , with powdery woods anchoring the whole affair ; I would love to sniff the parfum , especially the original dark jus .

To my nose this is more of an oriental - the powdery amber dominates the drydown .

Top - aldehydes , Italian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cardamom, neroli, coriander, clary sage

Heart - ylang ylang, lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, heliotrope , coumarin.

Base -oakmoss, olibanum, powdery amber, musk, vetiver, patchouli

photo : table for 100 - outdoor wedding dinner

Lucien Lelong Sirocco

2011-08-22T06:25:00.002-04:00

Released in 1934 , this almost unknown fragrance by Lucien Lelong was created by Jean Carles ( also creator of masterpieces like Shalimar and Emeraude .)

Classified as an oriental but with unusual topnote of lavender and coriander, Scirocco caught my attention because of the dry powdery patchouli drydown !

Though neither Emeraude or Shalimar work well on my skin ( opopponax often takes over and wears me down ), and lavender can be tricky , especially combined with vanilla , I bravely tried my sample of Sirocco cuz I'm all about the patchouli reward .

On application , the notes swirl around , unfurling rapidly indeed like the wind . They are all there in rapid sucession , sweet , dry , resinous , slightly crispy/herbal and oh my the patchouli indeed brings it all together ...yet no one note comes forward . This is the distillation of the oriental theme , not overdosed but simply balanced and beautiful .

Notes :

lavender , magnolia , rose , jasmine , amber , coumarin , benzoin , incense ( opopponax ) , sandalwood , patchouli, musk

image The Winds-SciroccoII

Artist: Tighe O'Donoghue, American (1942 - )

Lelong 's parents owned a fashion house in Paris , and by the 1920's Lucien had elevated the boutique , moved to an upscale neighborhood and created a flawlessly chic look that was worn by the it-girls of the day . He was married

to Princess Nathalie Paley, a Russian emigree and fashion superstar of Paris.Lelong also created a thriving perfume and cosmetic company. He understood the importance of developing a total lifestyle brand for himself; much like contemporary designers strive for today. Some well-known couturiers began their career at the side of Lelong. Christian Dior entered the house on October 6, 1941, and stayed with Lelong through World War II. He left in December 1946 to start his own couture house. Dior later said that the house of Lelong "… was an excellent couture school. There was a solid tradition of good workmanship… I learned a tremendous amount..."

Pierre Balmain worked for Lelong in the the thirties, but left, believing Lelong was

"… no more than a dealer in dresses."

He returned to work for Lelong alongside Dior late in 1941. Balmain would leave again in 1944 to open his own successful couture house.

Hubert de Givenchy was also briefly employed by Lelong in 1946.

Lelong , an influential presence in Paris during the Nazi Occupation of Paris in World War II ,

was President of the Chambry Syndicale de la Haute Couture .

One can notice the impression his designs made upon the Dior and Balmain styles by looking at these photos of Lelong couture from the late '20's ! Look at that gorgeous white charmeuse and ermine robe !

( on the right )

Lila turns one year old...

2011-08-21T07:06:00.001-04:00

My great-niece Lila celebtated her first birthday yesterday by throwing a party at the Little Gym in Jacksonville . Here I am holding the birthday girl , sitting on the left is my Mom . We had fun !!

Here's Lila with her Mom , my neice Valerie ...

Birthday Pilates...

Birthday cake...

and birthday presents...

Norma Kamali Signature

2011-08-20T06:39:00.000-04:00

Like an explosion of flowers , Norma Kamali bursts from the vial , a neon floral so rich in essences no one note stands out , all sing in an electric choir . Gorgeously blended , high octane , almost indescribable .

Said to contain over 100 floral notes , Kamali signature perfume is a scent I had never even heard of .

It is grounded with a barely discernable woody/patchouli accord - it is so tenacious that I got tired of it's demanding presence after an hour or so . Dab this one carefully !!

The bottle is really nice ...

Tom Ford Arabian Wood

2011-08-18T06:55:00.001-04:00

Without swappers , the post office would be sitting around licking stamps or something . We swappers send those little bottles back and forth across the pond like tennis balls . I was reading over on Basenotes one day , and someone commented how much they loved Teo Fennell Scent . It just so happened I had just swapped for 10 ml , and I did not care for it's synthetic jasmine personality at all ...so I commented that

"...hey girl , I have some and you are welcome to it , just send me your adress ! "

I'm not a hoarder , if I know my perfume is going to a good home , there are no strings attatched . She followed up by e-mailing me ,

"...gee really ? I'll take you up on it thanks...but what can I send you ? "

" No strings I said..."

but she insisted , and a fun little package arrived in my mail yesterday just brimming with things I have wanted to sniff .

I love my swapping pals .

One 10 ml decant of Tom Ford Arbian Wood , launched a couple of years ago as a Dubai exclusive , but now available state side I think . I looked around and found mixed reviews . The notes ?

Lavender, Bulgarian rose, freesia, orange blossom, galbanum, bergamot, Rose de Mai , ylang ylang, Rose absolute, jasmine, gardenia, Orris, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka bean , cedar , oak moss and

Honey

This is one big powerhouse of a scent , dominated by bitter green galbanum/oakmoss with a background of flowers and honey . I kept sniffing my wrist over and over , and up close it is bitter green but from afar a honeyed oud/wood note that was totally different . It was sort of a out-of-body experience how differently it smelled from the two perspectives . I'm going to spray it on the Captain and see what happens on his skin .

It has alot in common with Moss Breches - but much more floral and woody . It also has a retro powdery chypre accord hiding in there , very complex and interesting...I think I like it !

Arabian painting by Edwin Lord Weeks

image of bottle from here

Thank you Theodora !

Her package , all the way from Greece , also contained a decant of Creed Angelique Encens , which I have never smelled , samples of Norma Kamali perfume ( signature ) , Teo Cabanel Julia ( I sniffed this briefly at Henri Bendel's and loved it , but I want it in pure parfum...) , and Aptivita Express Gold firming mask ....

did I mention I love my swapping pals ?

Reviews coming up - plus a special book give-away and interview with author of The Lantern , Deborah Lawrenson .

Sinfonia di Note Petale Rose

2011-08-17T04:56:00.000-04:00

Struck dumb by the juicy sweetness , the jammy , silken lusciousness that is Petale Rose by Sinfonia di Note , I am left sniffing my wrist and swooning...it goes on and on and gets a little darker with time , but never brass or bright . This is a smooth gossamer gown brushing against soft skin . Passionately , this fragrance melts into skin and intensifies miraculously , getting jammy and red . I want to bite into my wrist .

A Single Rose

by Jim MooreI give to you this precious gift

For I have naught but this to give,

A rose I hold in simple hands,

To signify my love within

So hard it was to choose just one

for many held the beauty of you,

Reflected in their crimson tones
And basking in their rosy hues
But oh, how one, it caught my eye

Ablaze with color, apart from rest

Reduced me to a breathless sigh

And lured me with its lovely scent

So this I chose, a single rose,

Its tender petals silken smooth,

And with it give this fragile heart

And with it ... give my love to you

This was an impulse buy , while shopping in Florence's Oltrarno district . None of us in the Sniffa group there that day had ever heard of this line . Many of the scents are now available at Luckyscent , but not this one .

Lisa was picking up a few bottles of Sinfonia fragrances and I was intrigued with the Coeur di Noisette ( I grabbed the only one ! ) so I sniffed the rose too , was smitten , done deal . This is one elegant rose, though not just rose . I'm guessing there is orris , becase of the silkiness and I am indeed reminded of another rose fragrance I love , The Pink Room No. 1. My love affair with roses is in full swing , after 10 years of slumber !!

Millot Crepe de Chine

2011-08-15T06:32:00.000-04:00

This is a fragrance I have wanted to sniff for a long time . I can't count how many bottles I have bid on - and not won - I wasn't willing to bid very high , as I had no idea about it really...the first fragrance in the collection at the Osmoteque is a thing to own ! From the Victoria and Albert Museum archives , I read that it was released at the lavish Paris Art Deco Exposition in 1925 ( what a celebration THAT must have been ! )

Dear M sent me a decant , and it is love !

Very similar to classic Coty Chypre , perhaps slightly sharper and greener at first , how could I not love it ? It is slightly more nutty/woody , with a gorgeous silky floral heart .The drydown is classic warm chypre - unfortunately it does not last long on skin . I would love to get my hands on the pure parfum extrat . I think I'll keep bidding...

Notes:

top -neroli, bergamot, basil, peru oil and aldehydes

Heart:- gardenia, ylang-ylang, sage, Otto rose, chamomile and jasmine

Base- sandalwood, musk, oak moss, vanilla, vetiver, patchouli and benzoin

In a most excellent paper written by Monica Fecht , I found this quote -

L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, Paris 1925.

by Monika Fecht

" The section dealing with French perfume manufacture was directly connected to the fashion section; this spatial vicinity corresponded to the vicinity of its economic position: export figures testify to the fact that in the last twenty years the perfume industry developed into one of the largest national industries. (65) French perfumes, which were exported to such far away countries as Japan and China, still enjoyed a world-wide reputation. Bienaimé, who was president of the syndicate of the French perfumeries and who functioned at the exhibition as head of the perfume class, saw France’s important position to be founded on the countries disposition. The plants of the Provence, and the entire de Grasse region were considered to be privileged locations for the production of perfume; furthermore, plentiful sun and a mild climate added to the advantageous conditions. Attempts to cultivate the same quality of plants in similar climates, as for example in California, proved to be a failure. Also necessary to the art of producing a fine perfume is the ability and know-how of the distillation processes, a knowledge rooted in an ancient national heritage. Easily volatile solvents, a relatively old discovery of chemists, had only recently found a place in perfume manufactory, and this made it possible to produce concentrated essences without lose or alteration of the aroma. Since the fragrance element was no longer part of the rare and expensive plant oils, but instead was released into the alcohol which would immediately evaporated during the distillation, it became possible to create new variations and, above all, a greater quantity. Untiring research and a confident, trained taste determined the essences’ exact dose. These perfumes must have a sensuousness, a uniqueness: there must exist a secret harmony between them and clothing fashion. To grant a perfume a personality — that is the special role which the creator plays. (66) Here again we find at work a nationalism which had been so pronounced with the courtiers, nowhere else can one find the equanimity, the logic, and, simultaneously, the fantasy and easiness which characterizes French production. (67) Yet in spite of the seductive of the new fragrances with which women were able to bewitch men, these fragrances alone were not able to seduce new customers into buying the perfumes. For this success in selling, the perfume manufactures required the ingenuity of the glazier industry, that industry which produced crystal viles, elegant leather or cardboard cases, and which employed the top graphic designers.

Design of the perfume exhibition’s area was the result of a cooperative effort between the architects Raguenet and Maillard. The space consisted of two rooms, two thirds of each room being occupied by a closed circle. One room was formed into a octagon. In its middle, four star-shaped, glass showcases were grouped; these were crowned by a glass chandelier which the master glass artist René Lalique had created to appeared as a fountain frozen in glass. Over the exhibitor’s names, arose the angled ceiling surfaces decorated with an abstract landscape relief. In the second room, each manufacture received his own niche in which to build his stand; these stands consisted of a showcase and, usually, a little table with two armchairs. In the stand belonging to Pivier, the low table was decorated in gray-green, the armchairs were covered with green silk and gold tassels, and the room’s ceiling was formed to look like a gigantic clam. Vallée des Rois, Printané, and Volt were the sworn names of the newest perfume creations which were presented in two different round glass bottles: one bottle was engraved with an ibis, the other with a blossom. The case was ornamented with rose garlands and when opened glistened with the sparkel of a mirror. D’Orsay also used a mirror in order to be able to present his strict dome-shaped viles; the floor of his stand was embellished with a golden mosaic. The gold and black dotted vials, which were pictured with a dragon, stood in five dark wood showcases with cleverly hidden lighting. The linear vials topped with golden caps were inbeded in small leather boxes. He named his fragrances Tango, Vierge, Folle, Moda, Sais-tu, Lila, and Folies de Femme. The stand belonging to Guerlain was designed by the architect Remon. Moorish forms dominated the thick, heavy white vials topped with a three-cornered cap. Plassard, Jeanne Lanvin, Gueldy, Roger-Gallet, and other houses were also represented with their own stands. Perfumes in elegant crystal vials from Héléna Rubinstein, Gravier, or Vibert stood in glass showcases. Fashion designers such as Paul Poiret found a second profession in the sale of perfumes. In order to meet this competition, François Coty marketed his perfumes in beautiful bottles. Since 1908 he had successfully worked with René Lalique whose first creations, the dragonfly vials, found many enthusiastic imitators. Other artists and designers polished or engraved crystal vials whose decore, emphasized by coloring created through acid or sand blast matting, or decorated with enameling or painting, emphasized their luxurious character. The design schemes of vials ranged from those sporting a royal gratefulness as, for example, the Egyptian pyramids from the house of Pivier, to those imitating toys as, for example, from the firm Vigny: his vials were ornamented with butterflies, birds, or negro heads. A vials’ design was also reflected in the names of the perfumes: they ranged from Vallée des Rois, Kai-Sang, Maharadscha, and Kismet, to Fleurs de Bocca, Le Secret de Suzette and Dans la nuit, to Golliwogg. Highly cherished were the heavy scents made form musk, sandalwood, and patchouli — such were the scents fanned out by the new Cleopatras. "

Whatcha Wearin ?

2011-08-13T13:19:00.001-04:00

Today I am wearing Guerlain Sous Le Vent .

I have heard this described as dry , but to my nose this never veers into dry territory . It is rich and herbal and green and dries down to a rich woody chypre ....the original must have been somethin'.

Sous Le Vent is a re-issue and was originally a men's fragrance . It was created by Jaques Guerlain himself in 1933 ( conflicting reports say it was created for Josephine Baker )
and features notes of basil, bergamot, lavender, tarragon, carnation, oakmoss, iris, woods, patchouli. I love this !!

At first , the juicy citrus and liquorice-y herbs are thick , rich and refreshing at the same time . I haven't worn this in months , and have been wearing Roja dove diaghilev instead which indeed has very much in common with Sous le Vent .

There are other mossy fragrances I have worn and loved . My very first grown up perfume was Diorella ( along with Diorissimo- tho not a mossy scent ) , then Estee Lauder Private Collection , La Perla Parfum Prive , Acca Kappa White Moss , Dioressence , Tom Ford Moss Breches , Ava Luxe Mousse de Chine , Millot Crepe de Chine.... I'm a pushover for the fuzzy warm / green cool of moss .

What are you wearing this week-end ?

( my computer was down most of the week , but I'm baaaa-aaack....)

Providence Perfume Co Rose Boheme

2011-08-10T06:15:00.000-04:00

Charna creates beautiful perfumes , solid perfumes and body oils in Providence , R.I.

I loved her fragrance , Gypsy , which she created for the Outlaw perfume project . In fact I was totally smitten by the spicy cardamom she used in abundance...

Gypsy notes :

blood orange , cardamom , galangal , lotus , lavender , amber

She participated in the Midsummer Night's Dream project , her submission was called Eva Luna . An unexpected and fun carrot opens the fragrance with a kick ! It is a must try for natural perfume lovers !

Eva Luna notes :

carrot , mint , tuberose , rose , mimosa , violet leaf , Omani frankincense , musk

And now a lush , sexy rose/patchouli combination joins her portfolio of fragrances and she has named it Rose Boheme . Charna sent me a sample of her re-worked version , after releasing Rose Boheme for the Summer of Patchouli Love Project . She has fine-tuned the formula and created a warm , passionate patchouli with a melancholy heart , dark brooding and lovely . On opening , the patchouli is a rush of camphoraceous heat , spiced with saffron , slowly rouning and smoothing out as the lush rose blooms . Heartbreaking !

notes :

artisan rose petal infusion , rare white rose essence , turkish rose absolute , saffron , red tea , bourbon geranium , agarwod , aged patchouli

image La Boheme by Dan Gerhartz

read all about the Summer of Patchouli Love here .

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Gypsy

2011-08-09T05:47:00.000-04:00

Created about 2002 , and discontinued about five years later , Gypsy is a rose/patchouli scent for patchouli lovers like me ! It is an oil , so goes on lavishly baroque like brocade and velvet . There is incense here , blended with woods , the rose is fruity , rich and dark - everything blended so that no one note stands out .

Warm , heavy , protective as a winter cloak , this takes me to another time , when vibrant colors and rich textures were worn with pride...

The longer this is on skin , the more I love it . It begins to meld with warm skin , protecting me with it's aura of calm .

The notes include rose , patchouli , tolu balsam , sandalwood , maybe a touch of spruce...( I'm guessing here )

The winner of the Mona di Orio samples is....

2011-08-06T06:16:00.000-04:00

.....flavourfanatic

Congrats !!...E-mail me with your adress .

A cat and a dolphin

2011-08-05T09:48:00.000-04:00

My friend Chris sent me this link from youtube...awesome !!

Tidbits I read ...

2011-08-04T08:56:00.000-04:00

FYI - it is Tony Bennett's birthday today and did you know he was an artist ?

And on this blog , I laughed so hard I cried today . Check it out !! Seriously , do NOT miss this chick .

That is all .

Mona di Orio Nombre d Or Tubereuse and Vetyver

2011-08-04T05:55:00.003-04:00

Ahh tuberose...speak the words and you will clear a room . I love the fresh flowers , inhaling the over-the-top seductive scent just makes me swoon . they knock down everything in their path .

In fragrances , they add a buttery , irresisitable and tangible nuance that is a love-it-or-hate-it thing , which usually I love . Take-no-prisoners Fracas is the benchmark , which didn't work so well on me except in the older pure parfum , where it was as lovely as melting butter on homemade toast .

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY was awful on me , L'Artisan Nuit de Tuberose equally as awful , worse maybe . Modern slice and dice renditions just leave me feeling a little nauseous . Give me the whole mash-up , complex and indolic and sweet and buttery come here and let me envelop you kind of thing .

Mona di Orio has gone subtle .

Just a tiny dab on my hand starts quietly , and ever so gradually builds to a barely sweet , yet still buttery whisper ...not much development , but a satisfying rendition of a sophisticated tuberose you can take home to meet your mama . The drydown is a dry amber with a touch of green which clings for hours , barely audible ...

from Luckyscent :

Notes -pink pepper, bergamot from Calabria, green leaves, Indian tuberose absolute, benzoin, heliotrope, amber, coconut milk, musk.

Vetiver . If you read my blog you know it makes me run in horror . There's a past life trauma involved or something , because it literally makes my stomach turn flip-flops when it is the main player . There are many fragrances where it does it 's damp green thing , and I know it's there but I can tolerate it , even appreciate it . Like in Tommi Sooni Tarantella , a gorgeous and complex creation which has a large dose of vetiver in the heart . And I even love Tarantella . But I can't wear it , the vetiver gets on my nerves and makes me want to run screaming . It's weird , I need to be hypnotized or something , I want to get over it .

But we are talking about Mona di Orio's composition here - and if anybody can find a new way to interpret vetiver , it is she .

Ines the redhead ( *GRIN* ) loves this - I haven't really read other reviews and I am going in blind . I'm gonna put this on and be brave . I know ther's some labdanum in there so I have hope...

oh my , it is violet that jumps out first , a spicy kicky gingered violet and I get no vetiver at all . Ines - I think I'm with you , we need to split a bottle of this !! Sage , cedar and labdanum do a roundabout dance with vetiver , taking this in a whole new direction . It reminds me of something else I love . If I make the connection , I'll let you know .

But for now I am happy smelling this balanced creation . To my nose it's the most complex of the three , almost retro smelling but not powdery . Wonderful !

Notes - Bourbon vetiver, blue ginger from Madagascar, Virginia cedar, violet, cistus labdanum, clary sage absolute, tonka bean, musk.

Enter a comment and tell me your favorite Mona di Orio creation , and take a moment of silence to mourn the discontinuation of her original line of fragrances . I don't think they were well loved , though they were masterpieces of quality and weirdness in equal measure !

Drawing will be Saturday morning , so stop by !

images from here and here

Mona di Orio Nombre d'Or Vanille and a draw

2011-08-02T06:16:00.009-04:00

The Golden Mean or Golden Ratio is one of the most intriguing number in mathematics. It is commonly denoted by the Greek letter, phi, and is given in either to two forms by the equalities: F º 1.618033989... and f º 0.618033989...

The Golden Mean was known to the ancients (and moderns), who considered these numbers so sacred that monuments from the Giza Pyramids and Greek Parthenon to Notre Dame Cathedral and the United Nations Building in New York City have been based on these fundamentals of Sacred Geometry.

The Divine Proportion ( from Summum.us )

"Geometry has two great treasures: one is the theorem of Pythagoras; the other, the division of a line into extreme and mean ratio. The first we may compare to a measure of gold; the second we may name a precious jewel."

-- Johannes Kepler [1571-1630]

" Any objective observation we make must include a discussion of proportion for it is the rule of proportion in the examination of nature that causes us to observe an organized universe and a universe in chaos, rational and irrational numbers, harmony and discord, truth and falsity. These descriptions are merely proportional effects of the opposition that is inherent in all things.
We see harmony expressed by those emotions, feelings, and characteristics present within ourselves. This harmony is viewed within nature as the Divine Proportion. The Divine Proportion ascribed to our collective state of observation has been expressed, "For of three magnitudes, if the greatest (AB) is to the mean (CB) as the mean (CB) is to the least (AC), they therefore all shall be one."

AB/CB = CB/AC = 1.618...

The Divine Proportion was closely studied by the Greek sculptor, Phidias, and as a result, it took on the name of Phi. Also referred to as the Golden Mean, the Magic Ratio, the Fibonacci Series, etc., Phi can be found throughout the universe; from the spirals of galaxies to the spiral of a Nautilus seashell; from the harmony of music to the beauty in art. A botanist will find it in the growth patterns of flowers and plants, while the zoologist sees it in the breeding of rabbits. The entomologist views it in the genealogy of a bee, and the physicist observes it in the behavior of light and atoms. A Wall Street analyst can find it in the rising and falling patterns of a market, while the mathematician uncovers it in the examination of the pentagram.

Throughout history, Phi has been observed to evoke emotion or aesthetic feelings within us. The ancient Egyptians used it in the construction of the great pyramids and in the design of hieroglyphs found on tomb walls. At another time, thousands of miles away, the ancients of Mexico embraced Phi while building the Sun Pyramid at Teotihuacan. The Greeks studied Phi closely through their mathematics and used it in their architecture. The Parthenon at Athens is a classic example of the use of the Golden Rectangle. Plato in his Timaeus considered it the most binding of all mathematical relations and makes it the key to the physics of the cosmos.
During the Renaissance, Phi served as the "hermetic" structure on which great masterpieces were composed. Renowned artists such as Michelangelo, Raphael, and Leonardo da Vinci made use of it for they knew of its appealing qualities. Evidence suggests that classical music composed by Mozart, Beethoven, and Bach embraces Phi. Whether it was by design or intuitive is not known.

Therefore, the Divine Proportion presents itself in the very physical nature of Creation. It is seen as the beauty and organization within the cosmos. It is the harmony and glue that holds the unity of the universe.

The DNA molecule in which all the physical features of living things are stored, has also been created in a form based on the golden ratio. DNA consists of two intertwined perpendicular helixes.
The length of the curve in each of these helixes is 34 angstroms and the width 21 angstroms. (1 angstrom is one hundred millionth of a centimeter.)
21 and 34 are two consecutive Fibonacci numbers.
From a distance you might imagine that branches and leaves are arranged at random, haphazardly. The fact is, however, that the point where every branch will emerge, the sequences of the leaves on the branch, and even the symmetrical shapes in flowers, have all been set out with fixed laws and miraculous measures.
Plants have been abiding by these laws to the letter, since the moment they were first created. In other words, not a single leaf or flower emerges by chance.
The golden ratio also manifests itself in crystal structures. Most of these are in structures too minute to be seen with the naked eye. Yet you can see the golden ratio in snowflakes. The various long and short variations and protrusions that comprise the snowflake, all yield the golden ratio ."

fibonacci series-

1 - 2 - 3 - 5 - 8 - 13 - 21 - 34 - 55 - 89 - 144 - 233 - 377 - 610 - 987 ...

Perhaps this is the first time a perfumer has tried to adhere to the mathematical principles of the golden mean ratio . The pleasing proportion is expressed everywhere , even in the human body , the hand in proportion to the arm , the head in proportion to the length of the body...so how did Mona use this mathematical principle in her formula ? It would be enlightening if she would explain it a little , perhaps in the proportions of the top/heart/base ?

Dimi from Sorcery of Scent sent me samples of Vanille , Tubereuse and Vetyver and this morning I am wearing Vanille .

I'm anosmic to the top notes , for the first ten seconds I got nothing ! Weird !! Then the scratchy dry sandalwood comes forward with a touch of woody vanilla , not sweet at all . It reminds me very much of L'Artisan Havana Vanille at this point . Then it gradually sweetens , yet retains it's rough woody texture . It is quite linear , rather tame for Mona , nice , but not something I would wear .
I never fall in love with vanilla scents .

From fragrantica :

Top notes are petit grain, clove, orange and rum; middle notes are vetiver, sandalwood and guaiac wood; base notes are amber, tonka bean and vanille

Tomorrow : Tubereuse

Comment this week to be entered to win the three samples : Vanille , Tubereuse and Vetyver...what is your favorite Mona di Orio creation ?
I'm dying to sniff her Oud...!

Caron N'Aimez Que Moi

2011-08-01T05:35:00.000-04:00

"Delta Dawn" is a song written by former child rockabilly star Larry Collins and songwriter Alexander Harvey - best known as a 1972 top ten C&W hit for Tanya Tucker and a number-one hit for Helen Reddy in 1973. Image : Tanya Tucker Album cover

" Delta Dawn, what's that flower you have on ?

Could it be a faded rose from days gone by ?

And did I hear you say he was a-meeting you here today

To take you to his mansion in the sky..."

N'Aimez Que Moi was created in 1917 , at the time of WWI , and represented the girl left behind by her boyfriend and gone off to war ( meaning Love No One But Me ...)

This is a faded rose scent like no other , the dessicated blossom kept in a drawer and revisited like the memory of the lover long gone ....complex , woody , slightly sweet and creamy , tender , melancholy and

off kilter...the type of scent that makes me sad . The longer this is on skin , the more it intensifies and projects around me a tangible cloud , a memory . In the far drydown , I am reminded of Annick Goutal Heure Exquise ( contains much more sandalwood though ) , which must have been inspired by the Caron !

Notes: lilac, rose, violet, iris, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss.

many thanks to Christen of Knows Perfume for the generous decant !

Miller Harris Terre d ' Iris

2011-07-30T05:56:00.000-04:00

Though hard to get in the US , Terre d'Iris finally came across my desk thanks to Suze , my MUA muse who swaps all things wonderful from England !! A box full of incredible things arrived , including a partial bottle of Terre d'Iris . ( And a bottle of E. Coudray Nohiba ! )

I seem to like everything Lynn Harris does , even if not all her creations are wearable for me . This is one of the fragrances in the Nouvelle Edition line , was created by Lynn Harris and released in 2005 with notes of bergamot, bitter orange, southern herbs, rosemary, clary sage, orange flowers, rose, patchouli, tree moss, fir balsam and iris . Terre d' Iris is EDP with great sillage and longevity , revealing muti-faceted notes well blended and interesting .

At first I didn't get much iris , it is all about herbs and sunshine . It is almost candied from the orange blossom , not too dry , with a fizzy tartness that makes me want to giggle . I don't get the rose , the herbs lead the way to Lynn's great mossy-patch base , rounded with a shy , buttery iris . I really love this , and wish my bottle wasn't getting so low !

Roberto Cavalli Oro

2011-07-29T06:42:00.001-04:00

Roberto Cavalli , an Italian designer most known for his extravagant and sexy print clothing , was born in Florence in 1940 . It is said his father was killed by the Nazi's when he was very young , and hence Roberto never spoke until he was ten years old .

He began making print t-shirts in the sixties , then began experimenting with printing his flamboyant designs on leather , a process he pioneered .In 1999 he opened a boutique in NYC selling mostly jeans . From there , his clothing line and fame grew enormously , and in 2002 he released his first fragrance .

Maurice Roucel is the nose behind the creation of Roberto Cavalli's spicy , kicky scent ORO , released in 2004 . Opening with cardamon and juicy apple , ORO soon becomes very peppery/cedary yet softened with breezy florals and cinnamon . It is a very interesting scent for the first hour , but unfortunately falls flat at the base of pedestrian musk and woods .

notes :

top- magnolia, coriander, orris, pepper, apple and bergamot

heart -apricot, patchouli, cinnamon, freesia and cedar

base - sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and guaiac

image : leather skirt printed with tiger lilies from Cavalli vintage collection

Summer of Patchouli Love - #8 Lyn Ayre Patchouli Paisley

2011-07-28T05:39:00.001-04:00

I love paisley - from the traditional paisley shawls made of cashmere , to bright contempory prints .

Patchouli Paisley is a crazy good name for a fragrance - so I have been giving it some concentrated attention . On her blog , Lyn describes her process , as she created the indolic floral heart and embellished the musky base accord . Patchouli Paisley is definitely musky , sexy , indolic with a deep camphorous patchouli buried there . Very long lasting , and although not quite my favorite , it is very well balanced , finely crafted , well thought out , and does not scream patchouli - whcih ain;t easy when it's 25% concentration !!

To my nose , the neroli really shines here , and accents the musky base perfectly !

Notes :

Patchouli, Musk Accord, Vetiver, and Oakmoss , Jasmine, Neroli, and Orange Blossom, Sweet Orange, Petitgrain orange, and Black Pepper

Summer of Patchouli Love - # 10 Joanne Basset Tetu

2011-07-27T05:15:00.003-04:00

Smokin' !!

This is one smoky , dark scent that will challenge your senses and take you on a magic carpet ride .

notes :

citrus , patchouli, sultry vintage jasmine, sensual rose centifolia, amber, Vanilla absolute , cocoa absolute , smoky notes and so much more !

Summer of Patchouli Love - #2 Liz Zorn Riverwalk

2011-07-26T05:00:00.001-04:00

Liz Zorn created Riverwalk as an ode to the river nearby her home .

And it is appropriately complex , ever changing and flowing as the waters of a river that's alive . Don't get me wrong - this is not a watery ozonic scent . No - not one bit !

Riverwalk opens intensely green . On skin the lavender pulses with galangal ( a variety of fierce ginger ) and bergamot , jolting the senses alive , before the surprise of patchouli and star anise comes forward , pushed toward sweet gourmand with cocoa and vanilla/tonka . But what I really loved was the layered cedary drydown , softened with hay/moss/vetiver that smelled incensy and soft .

The more I wore it , the more I loved it...my tiny sample is almost gone !

Follow the link by scrolling over RIVERWALK HERE to read Liz's musings...

Many thanks to Monica Miller for including in the peace love and patchouli fest !

DSH Bancha Extreme

2011-07-25T06:01:00.005-04:00

Mention tea in our household , you'll get
"meh"
every time . Not that I don't drink tea - in the winter I love mint tea , earl grey tea , chai tea...
So let it be said that a fragrance based upon the idea of green tea just does nothing for me . You can thank BVLGARI and the endless procession of tea frags in their line-up . It puts me to sleep when it doesn't make me wince .

Leave it to Dawn to win me over .

Bancha Extreme is a refreshing green wonder - not to be missed !

She sent me a sample and I am so happy to be a convert to a tea scent . Created in response to the original scent BANCHA ( which I believed contained no tea...), Bancha Extreme is a deeper more complex version . One look at the notes and I knew I would love it - no one does resinous and deep like DAWN !!

Opening with a bright slap of lime and mint , it's a mojito in the sunshine ! Soon the deep green of Holy Basil tinged with incense creeps out of the shade - a sensation both stark and mysterious . This is a unique and wonderful scent ! Not a thing sweet nor floral about it at this stage , but so complex I keep sniffing over and over , looking for the familiar . But I am in a strange place , with no map , no signs and I don't speak the language . Searching my memory , I am slightly reminded of Ayala Moriel Rainforest during mid-development .

Once the frankincense merges with my skin , the woods begins to emerge , the sillage picks up and wafts a cloud around me , softening , sweetening a little . I am enveloped in a wonderful sensation that moves from warm to cool to warm again - walking through a forest where the sun warms tiny pools of liquid gold in the midst of the grandeur of cool shadows .

Top notes:

Bergamot, Green Mandarin, Lime Peel, Spearmint, Yuzu

Middle notes:

Centifolia Rose Absolute, Frankincense co2 absolute, Gunpowder Green (botanical accord), Holy Basil, Jasmine, Pine Needle, Seville Lavender

Base notes:

Australian Sandalwood, Balsam Fir, Cabreuva Wood, Himalayan Cedar, Indian Patchouli, Indonesian Vetiver, Moss

DSH Lautrec EDP

2011-07-23T05:30:00.001-04:00

Dawn sent me some samples , because she knows I love her work so much .
* GRIN *

Lautrec was created as a Limited Edition in honor of CaFleureBon's first blog-o-versary and you know what the magic words LE do to a sniffer like me...squeeee !

A deliciously rich sweet-tart opening that's edible and lasts for quite some time before it softens and rounds , becomes slightly powdery . The most prominent note is the unique passionfruit , otherwise so well blended it's like a wonderful dessert . You wonder where has this been all my life ?

The florals in the heart are only supporting players , as the drydown takes it's own sweet time coming around , the reassuring chypre notes caress the skin with an added caramel note , but not cloying nor too seet . Yummy !

Once again Dawn has created a gourmand yet traditional masterpece .

From Dawn's website :

Top notes: Bergamot, Cognac, Davana, Passionfruit, Sweet Absinthe

Middle notes: Cassie Absolute, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orange Flower Absolute - Spain, Orris, Sambac Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang
Base notes: Australian Sandalwood, Benzoin, Caramel, Civet, Indian Patchouli, Labdanum, Moss, Tolu Balsam

Image :

Illuminating New Orleans: Garden District by Patti Adams

gouache on vellum 2 3/4 x 4 inches

Lentheric Tweed ( 1933 )

2011-07-22T05:32:00.001-04:00

Hmmm....I found this odd . Tweed is a fougere/chypre and the lavender seems out of place , I would be happier without it . I can imagine it was quite unusual in it's day !

Originally released in the 20's or 30's by the French house of Lentheric in Paris , Tweed was marketed as a perfume for young women . Later in the 60's , an ad campaign ran the stated

" Blame it on Tweed..."

Reformulated of course , Tweed is not the same since Lentheric changed hands many times , owned for a time by Yardley . i'm not certain of the vintage I own , it is a decant which seems rather the worse for wear .

Lavender can be tricky for me , and here I find it a distraction .

Perhaps in cooler weather the more woody base notes will shine .

Top :
bergamot, cinnamon and geranium.
Heart :
ylang-ylang, jasmine, lavender and orange flower.
Base :
oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver.

Free Consultation...

2011-07-21T07:41:00.003-04:00

Yesterday I went to Jacksonville with Chris . We carpool together when it's time to go to Costco , and we use it as an excuse to sniff stuff . Which ain't easy in Jacksonville , Florida . Last week she ordered some new glasses and when they came in , we planned to go pick them up and have lunch together .

Which we did .

Taking a big chance , we decided to visit Dillard's to see if there was anything worth sniffing , and if we could score any samples . ( NOT EASY - we didn't ...)

The SA was really pushing Prada L'Eau d'Ambre , but I was busy across the aisle with a tall young man who knew NOTHING about fragrance . A French line caught my eye , I had never seen it before and it was on sale .

When I pointed at the shelf and said

" hmmm , I've never heard of that line before..."

He replied

" It's imported ."

I almost laughed out loud , but bit my tongue and dutifully sniffed a few ( Les Fleurs I think was the line . )

Sweet Grass was neither sweet nor grassy . I forgot the names of the others , they all smelled the same .

He volunteered

" We don't have a sales rep for these anymore , we are clearing them out..."

Then I noticed the Bois 1920 and the Miller Harris on clearance too . I began my rant about IFRA restrictions and reformulation and he actually was interested in learning , had never heard of IFRA nor reformulation .

I whipped out my Diaghilev and let him sniff a real , complex perfume . He immediately understood the difference in complexity and loved it . He thanked me , and I wandered off to where the SA was pushing Prada on Chris , but no samples were on offer .

A few minutes later , the young man came up behind me , with a woman in tow . They handed me a slip of paper , and he said to her

" Let's ask her , she knows alot about fragrance..."

The lady handed me a slip of paper that said , in wobbly script

"Maginoir "

I looked at it , blinked a few times and said

" Oh , Magie Noire ? That's discontinued . It's by Lancome . You probably won't find it anywhere , maybe on E-b*y . "

I looked at the young man and apologized for sending her elsewhere , then said

" There is a fragrance called Magie also , but they are not the same . Is this for you or someone else ? "

She said is was for someone else , and thanked me . The young man said to her

" I thought she would know , she really knows perfume..."

I laughed and said ,

" yeah , I'm available for consultation..."

Just a little bit of training would work wonders for these sales associates , why don't department stores invest a little ? Their sales would skyrocket...

SIGH .

EDIT :

After a little research online , it looks like Magie Noire IS available ...below left , latest reformulation

below right , original parfum ( images from e-b*y )

Krizia Teatro alla Scala

2011-07-20T05:33:00.000-04:00

The historic Teatro alla Scala is located in Milan , Italy and opened in 1778 , after a fire destroyed the Royal Ducal Theatre in 1776 . The theatre was built on the former location of the church of Santa Maria della Scala, from which the theatre gets its name. The church was deconsecrated and demolished and after two years of construction , the theatre opened with a production of Antonio Salieri's Europa riconosciuta.

Launched in 1986 , Teatro alla Scala the fragrance , is another rose chypre quite similar to Knowing... it opens with a clear , soaring rose , not quite jammy , yet slightly fruiy and full blown . The heart notes serve only to accentuate the nuances of the rose . The rich classic base leans slighlty oriental , with a touch of austere incense . I don't love this as much as I thought I would , the drydown seems to fall apart into synthetic territory . I do not know the age of my sample , I recieved it from a generous swapper .

notes :

top- aldehydes, coriander, fruity notes and bergamot

heart - carnation, tuberose, orris root, jasmine, beeswax, ylang-ylang, rose and geranium

base -patchouli, musk, benzoin, civet, oakmoss, vetiver and incense.

Nina Ricci Nina Original

2011-07-19T05:23:00.002-04:00

Original Nina (1987) was created by Christian Vacchiano , released in 1987 in the beautiful frosted/etched Lalique bottle . Not at all the big-shouldered loud personality of it's peers at the time , Nina Original is a soft spoken , blurry bouquet - a perfect scent .

I had high hopes for this - but alas the chypre base was very weak and disappointing . It is a lovely floral , ethereal and supremely wearable . Just not what I needed in my collection so I swapped away my bottle to someone who will wear it .

Notes :

Top - aldehydes, mimose, orange blossom, currant buds, green notes, peach, basil, marigold, bergamot and lemon

heart - mimose, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, west indian bay and rose

base - orris, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss, blackcurrant syrup and vetiver

Claudie Pierlot Mon Premier

2011-07-18T05:10:00.008-04:00

So soft , yet so spicy , dreamy , wispy , gossamer , lovely...one sniff and I was in love . Transported to another place , another time , I just closed my eyes and sighed . ...

Claudie Pierlot is not well known in the U.S.

I carried three of her scents in my online boutique , but this her first ,was released in 1999 (I had heard of it , but never sniffed ! ) .

Then a perfume fairy ( thanks Dixie ! ) sent me a sample out of the blue , and I almost broke my neck trying to find some more info . The first thing I thought of was Odori Iris - velvety orris warmed with spices . There is no iris listed in the notes for Mon Premier , but it is there , tying together all the spices , a delicious romp that is delightfully warm , soft and ethereal - a little melacholy , a little mysterious , alot pretty !

notes : cinnamon, clove, bergamot, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, cardamom, coriander, patchouli, and nutmeg

below , adorable blazer from Claudie Pierlot summer 2011 collection

Happy Third Birthday WAFT !

2011-07-17T05:09:00.000-04:00

Margaret Braun cake photo from cakecentral.com

The winners of the drawing :
Denise Miller winner of the 5 ml silver purse bullet of Indiene
Shelley winner of the Dupetit samples
e-mail me...

Thank you everyone for playing along and helping me to celebrate three years in the blog-o-sphere...!!!

Estee Lauder Knowing - vintage parfum

2011-07-16T04:47:00.003-04:00

Knowing is a full blown fruity/jammy rose , all grown up and in her prime . She's dressed in velvet , drinking a glass of rare aged Brunello di Montalcini and smiling . Yet , she doesn't wear too much make-up , nor does she laugh too loudly . She has delicate lines around her eyes , and she doen't care at all about the latest trends...

I adore pittosporum ! Also known as Japanese Orange Blossom , it is as creamy/sweet and ethereal as it looks . Estee Lauder was taken with it , including it in this lush composition , where the pittosporum gives wings to the jamminess of the delicate rose . Later in the drydown , the rose comes back to earth with it's chypre base , lovely and long lasting !

The notes :

top - mimosa, pittosporum, sweet rose and tuberose, plum and melon.

heart - floral notes , patchouli , iris , clove and laurel.

chypre base - precious woods (sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli), oakmoss and civet.
Many thanks to my friend Paco for turning me on to it - he has great taste and this is one of his faves . Enjoy your trip to Ireland Paco , safe travels !

above left , pittosporum hedge in bloom
Remember to enter the drawing for Dupetit's Indiene - tomorrow I will choose a winner and a runner up !

Summer of Patchouli Love - #1 Dupetit Indiene Drawing

2011-07-13T07:10:00.003-04:00

Lovely Monica Miller has provided me with a 5 ml purse spray of Dupetit's patchouli scent Indiene for a draw this week-end . I bought this for myself too - it was a favorite last year whren I first reviewed it , and remains a favorite today . DRAWING NOW CLOSED

Here is a reprint of my original review from September 2010 -

Give me patchouli !!

Dupetit has done just that...Indiene has been my favorite since first sniff . I smelled it first - of all the samples Alfredo sent - and it remains my favorite of his creations . Strangely gourmand , this is the only patchouli I have wanted to actually eat .

At first , I didn't get all the patchouli , I have been sampling alot of new things lately....
anyway last week I put on some Cartier Trezieme Heure , not sure if it was too hot outside to enjoy it or not . I love the smoky/patch aspect of Trezieme Heure . Then a few hours later , I forgot and applied some Indiene....wow the patchouli popped out at me like crazy .

The combination of tonka , almond and patchouli is soft and powdery and unlike quite anything else I own . This reminds me of my HG patchouli , DSH Vintage Patchouly . In fact , it may have topped it as my new HG patchouli .
This is mostly a soft cashmere shawl , just unpacked from the shipping cartons , little leaves of patchouli still clinging to it...

Notes :
bitter almond , sherry , rose , patchouli ,vanilla , tonka , cannabis concrete

To be entered in the draw , tell me your favorite patchouli scent . Drawing Sunday - to celebrate WAFT's third birthday !

Dreams and Visions Winner

2011-07-13T05:00:00.001-04:00

The winner of A Wing and a Prayer Dreams and Visions is...

Marilyn !

come and get it...

Revlon Moon Drops Vintage : cologne -plus spray

2011-07-12T06:41:00.001-04:00

Knock me down with a feather !
Where has this been all my life ?
Lovely , complex floral with a lush chypre drydown... I am instantly smitten with Moon Drops ....and I don't remember smelling it before !

Top notes: Aldehydes, gardenia, peach, raspberry, bergamot
Heart notes: Lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, carnation, orris, honey, tuberose
Base notes: Sandalwood, musk, cedarwood, moss, styrax, amber, benzoin

Created in 1970 , Moon Drops creator seems to be lost in obscurity . The fragrance is fruity and slightly aldehydic on top , quickly segueing into a rich floral heart , balsamic chypre drydown that verges on oriental , very musky and interesting . If you have never tried it , I'd be happy to send you a sample !

painting by Richard Hoedl

Midsummer Night's Dream : A Wing and a Prayer Dreams and Visions Drawing

2011-07-11T08:41:00.000-04:00

Jane Cate , the creator of Dreams and Visions has offered a 15 ml bottle of her creation for a give-away !
I am re-posting this review . Please comment in order to be entered in the draw : the winner will be selected next week , so stay tuned ! Tell me what you think of Shakespeare's fantasmigorical play , Midsummer Night's dream...

Created in honor of Puck , the mischieveous character who casts a spell on the wrong lovers...and speaks the often quoted line

" Lord what fools these mortals be..."

Deceptively simple and soft , Dreams and Visions is so very aptly named . It elicits feelings of safety and calm , and perfectly exeplifies nature in a pure fashion . I am totally smitten with this - it is a must try for those of you who think all naturals smell " medidcinal " . Just lovely !

notes : mimosa , cassia , rose , sandalwood , patchouli

photo of bottle : mine
watercolor by my friend Marianne Lerbs

Caron Infini Extrait

2011-07-07T05:08:00.001-04:00

What's not to love about the Serge Mansau bottle this aloof , modern scent resides in ?
The crystal sparkles , the angles glint in the sun...the pride of any bottle collector !
But what about the jus inside ?
Yes I have sniffed the EDT , and it was rather sharp .
I'm a sucker for any extrait .
I don't want to cut the cord on my bottle...
First . I must photograph the bottle in all it's untouched glory !

Infini has been around - she's been hurt , even maligned by those who do not understand her austere nature . She wears platinum , set with diamonds . But these are from her Aunt Maggie who passed away too young . She wears pants , when most around her are wearing charmeuse . And she smokes , but only rarely ( when she's nervous or stressed . )

on the surface she seems cold , but it is only a reflection of her reserve . Underneath all that , she wears white silk lingerie , and loves fresh flowers . Treat her right , and she will love you unabashedly , forever...

Top notes: Aldehyde complex, bergamot, peach, neroli, coriander

Heart notes: Rose centifolia, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, ylang-ylang, carnation

Base notes: Sandalwood, vetiver, ambrein, tonka, musk, civet

My bottle is somewhat newer , the civet has probably been removed . The roses are gorgeous after about an hour , and metallic sheen of aldehydes has worn off , the smoke has settled as the cigarette was stubbed out when that gorgeously tanned man walked into the room !

When summer sizzles...Top Ten

2011-07-06T06:11:00.003-04:00

I'm not seasonal when it comes to my fragrances...well not so much , anyway . It is spring year-round in Florida , except when it's not . When it's not spring , it sizzles . Therefore , most of my collection is lighter than average . Heavy incense laden and woody fragrances don't seem to make it past the sampling phase . Though I may love them , I don't reach for them often .

What do I reach for when summer sizzles ?

Roja Dove Diaghilev - the new classic , my HG
( FYI - 500 ml of the stuff is being delivered here today from London...I'll be drenched in it as I decant all the splits . There will be one empty 250 ml flacon up for grabs...jus sayin'...)

Bruno Acampora Seplasia - coconut sunshine

Carthusia Aria di Capri - breeze blowing my hair

The Pink Room No 1 - nose buried in a rose

Nina Ricci Vintage LAir du Temps - fizzy tangy perfection

Amouage Gold - high brow beauty by my favorite nose

Robert Piquet Baghari - peaches and champagne

Claudie Pierlot Eau de Pierlot - the orange blossom made for me

Van Cleef and Arpels Vintage First parfum - complex beauty of the entire flower garden

Clive Christian No 1 - sexy white flowers and indoles

Remember to comment in the book drawing , below !

More patchouli reviews and more Midsummer Nights Dream reviews to come...

Shiseido Nombre Noir - BURIED SECRETS book drawing

2011-07-05T09:40:00.000-04:00

image from Moby's Newt

Gobsmacked !

Seriously , this was such a surprise . The rose is beautiful , the darks woods are petrified wood , but lurking under the almost harsh opeing is a gorgeous cvlassic chypre accord . The effect is of a soft felt backing overlaid with carved woods and a sheet of glass . Ah , how much Lutens has changed , and not for the better . This is a rare beauty , and my sample languished for too long before I gave it a

proper wearing and review

( Thanks Marla for another lemming...).

I just didn't expect to like it and now , I WANT it to come back....

TOP NOTES: Aldehydes, Coriander, Bergamot, Marjoram, Rosewood

HEART NOTES: Rose, Geranium, Orris, Jasmine, Ylang-ylang, Carnation, Lily of the Valley, Osmanthus

BASE NOTES: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Honey, Amber, Musk, Benzoin, Tonka

Mentioned breifly in the just released novel BURIED SECRETS , Nombre Noir deserves it's cult status !
I recieved an advance copy of the book , so comment here and tell me your thoughts about Nombre Noir to be entered in the draw for a hard cover copy of the novel BURIED SECRETS by Joseph Finder .
Though he mentions perfume twice in the novel , once on the first page , and again on the last page , the story has nothing to do with perfume .

Celebrating July 4th ?

2011-07-04T06:23:00.002-04:00

Lady Liberty is not the only one laying down on the job...

Summer of Patchouli Love - Unveiled !

2011-07-02T08:00:00.004-04:00

1 ) Dupetit Indienne
This was one of my favorite three . It's weird though I didn't recognize it . I had a sample a few months ago , used it up and wanted a full bottle . Dupetit's fragrances are wonderful . Indienne is not a new creation , it has been in his line for awhile...

2) Liz Zorn - River Walk
On first sniff I didn't care for this , it was too green . But later , I loved the cedar-y drydown .

3) Shelley Waddington- Go Ask Alice
This was a strong and smokey one - I don't wear smoke . ( I cooked on a woodstove for years as a back-to-the-land hippie )

4) Jane Cate- Haight and Ashbury
This scent struck me a waaaay too sweet/floral , but taken on it's own merit , and not considered as a patchouli scent , I like it better the more I wear it .

5) April Aromatics - Bohemian Spice
My notes simply say " very nice " Somehow it ranks up there with PdE Wazamba and SL Filles en Aigilles , like a walk in the conifer forests around the olympic Peninsula . The fact it reminded me of "something else" kept it out of my top three , but I want a bottle...

6) Perfume by Nature - Happiness
I thought this one was weird , but citrus is never my choice in fragrance , whether blended with patch or vanilla . Her fragrance , PAN , was patchouli rich also and I loved it and want a bottle . I don't love everything !

7) Providence Perfume Company- No Name yet...
How about calling it Fields of Woodstock ?

8) Lyn Ayre - Patchouli Paisley
This was more floral to my nose , I dismissed it . Go figure...it will definitely get more skin time . Her blog post about it's creation , was really great !

9) ( There was no number nine...)

10) JoAnne Bassett - Tetu
Another one that was waaaay too smokey . The drydown , much later , was wonderful !

11) Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Bodhi Sativa
The play on words ( bodhisattva - bodhi sativa ) really great . This has a " kind bud " accord...how hippie chic can you get ?
Oh yes... I loved this , and secretly hoped Dawn's creation would be in my top three !
It was number two pick , I want a bottle !

Bohdi Sativa Composition*
Top notes: Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Galbanum
Middle notes: Cannabis Accord (Botanical), Centifolia Rose Absolute, Champaca Absolute
Base notes: Australian Sandalwood, Benzoin, Buddahwood, East Indian Patchouli, Frankincense co2 absolute, Texas Cedarwood, Tolu Balsam, Vanilla Absolute

12 ) AmandaFeeley - Queen of Punk
This was one that was a little muddy at first , but need to give it more skin time .

13) Opus Oils -Wild Child
This was my top pick , alot of test bunnies picked this one . Go OPUS OILS !!
I found it creamy , sweet , musky , floral , sexy , patchouli rich...,it hit all my buttons just right ! FBW !!

14) Therapeutate - Royal Water
I found Royal Water to sweet for my taste . Someone described the drydown as " brown sugar..." . Made me want to give it another chance .

I will link to the sites as these come up for sale .

Summer of Patchouli Love - TOP THREE

2011-06-29T11:41:00.000-04:00

Faced with thirteen samples of fragrance based on my favorite note - patchouli- was heaven !
The first thing I did was dip paper strips into each vial and sniff . A favorite emerged right away , and this did not change after applying to skin . However , a few that were not-so-great on paper , developed beautifully on skin .
The next day , my office smelled fantastic , all those scent strips wafting patchouli-patchouli-patchouli....
My favorites ?
Number Thirteen - it was almost gourmand , had a cocnutty vibe going on that made it irresisitable , with the chocolatey patch underneath .
Number One - the first I tested and a straight up patchouli that I also instantly loved . I'm still exploring the nuances .
Number eleven was a kinder , gentler patchouli that even patch haters can love . ( really , some people hate patchouli . I don't trust them any more than I trust people who don't drink coffee...being a coffee roaster and all ).
I don't feel ready to do actual reviews of these yet - all this has been alot of sniffing , between the Midsummer Night's Dream and the Patch Test bunny thing .
But I am in heaven testing all these .
PEACE , LOVE , and PATCHOULI !! ( PLAP ON PEEPS ! )

Summer of Patchouli Love

2011-06-28T08:45:00.009-04:00

I love patchouli , in every way possible . Weirdly , I never realized how much I love it until I bought DSH Vintage Patchouly about a year ago . I wear Dawn's creation almost every night to bed ( the Captain never fails to say " that smells good " when I put it on...). I'm on my second bottle , and I use the shower soap and lotion too . Love ya Dawn !
I went on a binge , sampling every patchouli fragrance I could find . There is yet to be any that top Vintage Patchouly , but a few of the samples I tested for the Summer of Patchouli Love Project came close .
We recieved the sample vials marked only with numbers , testing blind , not knowing the name of the fragrance nor the perfumer behind it . Number five was immediate YUMMM , pine forest and earth and really good . However I decided it wasn't original - reminding me of something else - so it didn't make it into my top three .
Number six was weird - high pitched with too much citrus ( lime ? )
Number ten got a yuck - I don't want to smell like a camp fire ( alot of people will love this one . )
A couple of them got the same comment in my notes - too muddy...I may learn to appreciate them after more wearings ( Number seven and Number twelve ) .
There was one winner at the top , and two close seconds , and Number five was in fourth place . All four of those would be FB worthy for me and I can't wait to find out the perfumers and the names of the fragrances !
Do you want to know my top three ?
*GRIN*

Midsummer Night's Dream - April Aromatics Nectar of Love

2011-06-27T06:03:00.000-04:00

Tanja has created a beautiful and moving floral for the Midsummer Night's Dream project , and has called this aphrodisiac Nectar of Love ...

A wonderful balance of rose , tuberose , jasmine and fruits makes this an edible arrangemet , far from a modern fruity/floral ! Precious , balanced , meditative - beautiful !

Midsummer Nights Dream : Parfum Phyto Dreams

2011-06-26T06:40:00.001-04:00

A dream makes life worth living

A dream gives you purpose

A dream gives you focus

A dream gives you ideas

A dream gives you inspiration

A dream gives you determination

A dream gives you tenacity

A dream gives you passion

A dream gives you vision

A dream makes you see possibilities

A dream helps you overcome challenges

A dream broadens your horizons

A dream gives you fulfilment

A dream gives you abilities

A dream gives you ambitions...

- photo and quote from crazybutable

Was it real or was it a dream ? Have you ever had a dream so real , so colorful , so wonderful you just didn't want to wake , or when you awoke could not believe it wasn't real ? Dreams have always fascinated me . A healer told me once to concentrate on my hands in my dreams - if I could see my hands I could control my destiny ....

Yuko Fukami has created the scent of a green meadow next to a wooded stream , a sunny beauty that is quite long lasting . Rising as a mist in soft waves from my arm , the notes are so well blended it is difficult to pick out only one - creamy , green and not sweet , this calls from across space and chimes softly .

notes :

top - coriander , virginian cedarwood

heart - tuberose , violet leaf , cassie

base - hay , flouve , ambrette seed , ambergris

Midsummer Night's Dream Sample Sets

2011-06-25T10:22:00.000-04:00

Remember to support our natural perfumers by purchasing a sample set of ten fragrances from our blog project ! But hurry , supplies are limited ...

Limited Edition Sets available exclusively here at WAFT !!
10 x .7 ml vials $65.00
Individual Samples $7.00 each

Midsummer Night's Dream - Envoyage Titania and Be-Bellatrix Titania

2011-06-21T08:03:00.058-04:00

Titania falls in love with Bottom....

Two of our perfumer's were inspired to name their fragrances Titania and so today I explore and compare them . They are nothing alike !

How delicately , yet passionately Titania walks in her magical world - so must the scent of her be !
Titania , the proud Queen of the Fairies , although married to Oberon , falls in love with Bottom . Bottom is a lowly human laboror , who has a spell cast upon him that gives him the head of an Ass ....and Titania the fairy queen....what would happen if they had a child ?

And so the imagination can run wild with a story such as this ! Our two perfumers have indeed let their imagination run , but in different directions...

Out of this wood do not desire to go:

Thou shalt remain here, whether thou wilt or no.
I am a spirit of no common rate;
The summer still doth tend upon my state;
And I do love thee: therefore, go with me;
I’ll give thee fairies to attend on thee,
And they shall fetch thee jewels from the deep,
And sing while thou on pressed flowers dost sleep;
And I will purge thy mortal grossness so
That thou shalt like an airy spirit go.
-(A Midsummer night’s dream)

Ankica has imagined an aromatic fairy wing/gossamer scent in honor of our Queen !
Mint plays an important role in the first few minutes , backed by complex peppery rosewood . Though woody and dark , it remains in the light by becoming creamy and comforting from buttery tuberose , soft orris and sandalwood - a magical feat Ankica !

Ankica Milic ~ Be-Bellatrix

entry : Titania
notes : rosewood , pink pepper , mint , tuberose , rose ,neroli , labdanum , orris ,
sandal , oakmoss , patchouli

"I know a bank where the wild thyme blows,

Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine:
There sleeps Titania sometime of the night,"
- Oberon , Titania 's husband from Shakespeare's Midsummer Night's Dream

Shelley has created a vision of bountiful summertime with gourmand notes of honey and nuts , and doesn't that sound irresisitable ?
IT IS !
The beauty of this fragrance is compelling - at first tart and aromatic , becoming sweet , deep and almost indescribable , Tatiana will keep you sniffing and marvelling at the juxtaposition of wildly disparate notes which come together in a most magical way .

Shelley Waddington ~ Envoyage Perfumes

entry : Titania
notes : fir , spice , citrus , basil , mint , lavender , rose , juniper , woods and nuts , honey

Long live summer ! Happy Solstice as the sun moves into Cancer at 1:17 pm EDT today .

Midsummer Night's Dream : Perfume by Nature PAN

2011-06-20T07:13:00.001-04:00

Sir Joseph Noël Paton - Evening

LOVE THIS !
An intoxicating patchouli scent that could fit just as easily into the summer of Patchouli love , but this was created in honor of Puck = a tamer , gentler version of Pan in our Shakespearean play....PAN the scent is wildly gorgeous - a green earthy Rosemary and Patchouli scent , deepened with oakmoss and embellished with cinnamon , nutmeg and thyme....lordy lordy this is wonderful . Long have I searched for the perfect rosemary scent ( that doesn't remind me of lamb stew )...Dominated by rosemary , PAN is my favorite scent of the summer ! Earthy , resonant , spicy and just outright sexy in the best way .
Notes :
patchouli , rosemary , oakmoss , cinnamon , thyme , nutmeg

An illustrated Midsummer Night's Dream...

2011-06-19T09:58:00.000-04:00

Paton, Joseph Noel (1821-1901)

The Reconciliation of Oberon and Titania. 1847.

Location :National Gallery of Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland, Great Britain

Photo Credit : Art Resource, NY

Fuseli, Henry (1741-1825)

Titania and Bottom. c.1790. Oil on canvas, 2172 x 2756 mm. Presented by Miss Julia Carrick Moore in accordance with the wishes of her sister, 1887.

Location :Tate Gallery, London, Great Britain

Photo Credit : Tate Gallery, London / Art Resource, NY

Dadd, Richard (1817-1886)

Titania sleeping. 1841. Photo: Gérard Blot.

Location :Louvre, Paris, France

Photo Credit : Réunion des Musées Nationaux / Art Resource, NY

John Anster Fitzgerald (1832-1906) -

Titania and the Changeling Child - A Midsummer Night’s Dream

Arader Galleries

Midsummer Night's Dream : Esscentual Alchemy Pixie Dust

2011-06-17T10:04:00.000-04:00

Tangy sweet/tart strawberry opens this concoction , and a true - to - life strawberry it is ! Pixie Dust happy opening is supported by earthy balsamic and woody notes making this an interesting and well crafted fruity/fun scent like none I have ever sniffed ! The fruity/woody poplar buds play off the strawberry beautifully , deepened by the fir balsam . Pixie Dust is contrasted and complex and full bodied yet still playful . Just beautiful ...

notes :

antique oakmoss, angelica root, fire tree, vanilla , poplar buds , lilac tincture , violet leaves , honey/beeswax tincture, rose damascus , karo karounde , rosewood , lavender reserve , bergamot , davana , balsam fir , heliotropin isolate , strawberry isolate

image : pixiedusted parties

Midsummer Night's Dream - Providence Perfume Co. Eva Luna

2011-06-15T05:00:00.001-04:00

" Lord what fools these mortals be ! "

Eva Luna is not what you might expect...Charna has concocted a delicious surprise for your midsummer's dreams...verdant carrot kisses , spring green flowers , joyful lovers , a moonlit dance .

Opening with a fresh carrot accord ( truth be told , I did not expect to like it , but it's delightful !! ) which soon segues cheerfully into verdant violet leaves and creamy white flowers , backed by incense .

( hello Chanel No 22...)

Notes :

Top -Russian Carrot , Mimosa , Fresh Mint , Rosewood
Heart - Tuberose , Frangipani , Jasmine Grandiflorum , French Violet Leaf

Base - Orris , Omani Frankincense , Ambrette

Midsummer Night's Dream : The Scented Djinn Peaseblossom

2011-06-14T04:09:00.001-04:00

"Peaseblossom ,

quiet fairy be ,

shyly collects dewdrops

to steep the petals which he passes

on his merry way through the sylvan woods

A sweet perfume to present to his

Golden Fairy Queen "

Ah Justine has created a beautiful , resonant scent with great finesse . This is at once sunny and deep , grassy , floral , resinous .

I love it !
I consider this a very sophisticated composition , the top notes are unusual with her tinctured wheatgrass adding freshness and green tinged sunshine , the heart is well blended , the base is deep and earthy ( love the mitti , she has used it with a deft hand ! ) . I will wear this joyfully .

Notes : wheatgrass tincture , oakmoss tincture , ambrette hydrosol , benzoin , lavender , clary sage , carnation , tonka bean , rose otto , patchouli , mysore sandalwood , vetyver mitti , honey , jasmine sambac , tolu balsam

please follow the discussions over at Amandas , here .

Summer of Patchouli Love - I am SOOO THERE

2011-06-13T08:18:00.000-04:00

13 Perfumers

13 Patchouli Perfumes

100% Natural.

15% EDP maximum, Alcohol Base.

25% Patchouli minimum in the essential oil blend.

Sent , decanted and numbered by Monica Skye Miller and no one else.

Sent to Patch Test Bunnies by June 15th…in plain, numbered, plain silver spray atomizers or glass vials …Incognito. Reviewing and Celebrating, Online Magazines, Hard Copy Magazines, Newspapers….

June, July, August 2011

or for as long as the Patchouli Muses Amuse you.

Perfumes available for purchase August 2011 or at each perfumer’s personal time line.

Patch Test Bunnies (Noses)

Marlen Eliot Harrison

Nathan Branch

Lucy Raubertas Indie Perfumes

Nava Perfume Posse

Justine Crane O True Apothecary!

Felicia Hazzard Fragrance Belles Lettres

Donna Hathaway/ Marina Geigert Perfume Smelling Things

http://la-story.com/

http://scentsofself.wordpress.com/

Scent Hive

This Blog Really Stinks

Ida Meister

David Lincoln Brooks

Marina Geigert

Carlos J Powell

Celebrity Patch Test Bunnies

Grammy Award Winning Vocalist Patti Austin

Grammy Award Winning Singer/SongwriterMary J Blige

Academy Award Winning Actress Jodie Foster

Broadway and Jazz Singer, Vocal Artist… Simone (Nina Simone’s daughter)

Author/ Educator, Earth Activist, Witch, Starhawk

Jeanne Rose, Author, Aromatherapy Pioneer, Educator.

Fashion Priestess, Clothing Designer Lily Blue

Fetish Model..Tiger Powers

Artist, Musician, Animal Rights Protector Heather D Perry

ECO Couture Green Fashions (Queen of Green) Deborah Lindquist

LEAD UP

to Summer of Patchouli Love 2011

Patchouli Posts…

Vintage Patchouli Part 1 Indieperfumes

rPLAP! DSH Notebook

Brown fairies arriving at my door Monica Skye Miller

John Lennon’s Primal Patchouli Scream by Kedra Hart

Ode to Patchouli JoAnne Bassett

Patch Test Bunny Lisa SIMONE Kelly post

Who IS Tiger Powers? Patch Test Bunny

Who is Lily Blue? Patch test Bunny

Memories of the Summer of Love 1967, by Lyn Ayre

That Summer by Magnolia May Polley

Personal Patchouli, the girl that’s “unruly with patchouli” Mandy Aftel

My Patchouli Problem, Donna Hathaway

Secret Patchouli, Justine Crane

Bohemian Patchouli, Evan Healy

Patchouli Renaissance Shelley Waddington

Patchouli, A Perfumer’s Perspective, Ambrosia Jones

The Story of the Green Monster Donna Hathaway

Perfume Poem, Opal Tulipiano

No Bunnies Were Harmed, Pharm Marm

Patchai Ellai, Justine Crane

Summoning Earth, Roxana Villa

Happy Earth Day You Dirty Hippie! A Discourse on Patchouli.

Brass and Bulldog a Patchouli Perfume

PLAP! PEACE-LOVE-AND-PATCHOULI by Justine Crane

Introducing Patch Test Bunny HEATHER by Monica

Patchouli Perfumed Bath by Anastasia Angelopoulos

Personal Patchouli Story Charna Ethier

INTERVIEWS with Summer of Patchouli LOVE Perfumers

Rodney Hughes interviewed on Fragrance Belles Lettres

Charna Ethier interviewed on Fragrance Belles Lettres

Tanja Bochnig interviewed on Perfume Pharmer

Lyn Ayre interviewed on Perfume Pharmer

Ambrosia Jones interviewed on Perfume Pharmer

PLAP!!! (peace-love-and-patchouli)… Go ahead! Give yourself a PLAP on the back, you deserve it!

Home Base for Summer of Patchouli Love 2011 is Martha’s Vineyard Island. MA. USA.

COMING SOON - MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM PROJECT

2011-06-11T11:32:00.002-04:00

ANNOUNCING !!
SAMPLE SETS 10 x .7 ml samples $65.00
IF YOU HAVE EXPRESSED INTEREST PLEASE E- MAIL ME
( kafa at aug dot com )
TO CONFIRM SO THAT I CAN INVOICE YOU !!

Midsummer Night’s Dream Scent Event Perfumes will be reviewed on

the following Fragrance Blogs beginning June 14th through Summer Solstice June 24th

Bloody Frida

WAFTbyCarol

EauMG

Perfume Smellin’ Things

Feminine Things

All I am – a Redhead

Perfume Pharmer

Le Parfumeur Rebelle

Scent Hive

The Windesphere Witch

Fragrance Belles-Lettres: The Magazine

Participating Perfumers Include:

Charna Ethier ~ Providence Perfumes

entry : Eva Luna

notes : carrot , mimosa mint , rosewood , tuberose , violet leaf , orris , frankincense

Lisa Fong ~ Artemisia Perfumes

entry : Orchard

notes : chamomile , vetiver , oakmoss , clary sage , jasmine sambac , mimosa

Yuko Fukami ~ Parfum Phyto
entry : Dreams
Notes :
top - coriander , virginia cedar
heart - tuberose , violet leaf , cassie
base - hay , flouve , ambrette seed , ambergris

Shelley Waddington ~ Envoyage Perfumes

entry : Titania

notes : fir , spice , citrus , basil , mint , lavender , rose , juniper , woods and nuts , honey

JoAnne Bassett ~ JoAnne Bassett Perfumes
entry : Night Queen (Reine de Nuit eau de parfum.)

Notes: rhododendron, night queen, peru balsam,
rosewood, damask rose oil, neroli, tuberose ,vintage jasmine
sambac, frankincense, yuzu, clove bud, tulsi, frankinsense noir , champa , vetiver, violet leaf and ylang ylang

Ambrosia Jones of Perfumes by Nature

entry : Pan

notes : rosemary , thyme , jasmine , patchouli , oakmoss

Libby Patterson of Libby Patterson Organics

Ane Walsh ~ Artesã Perfumista

entry : Robin

notes : bergamot , kaffir lime petitgrain , jasmine , night queen , myrrh , vetiver , agarwood , sandalwood , frankincense , ambrette , pitanga

Justine Crane ~ The Scented Djinn
entry : Peaseblossom
Notes : wheatgrass tincture , oakmoss , benzoin , lavender , clary sage , carnation , tonka bean , rose otto , patchouli , mysore sandalwood , vetyver mitti , honey , jasmine sambac , tolu balsam

Lisa Abdul-Quddus ~ Blossoming Tree
entry : Fare Thee Well , Nymph
notes : clementine , mandarin petitgrain , night queen , vanilla , vetiver , patchouli , labdanum , omungorwa

Ayala Moriel ~ Ayala Moriel Parfums
entry : Smiling Country
Notes : undisclosed

Ankica Milic ~ Be-Bellatrix

entry : Titania

notes : rosewood , pink pepper , mint , tuberose , rose ,neroli , labdanum , orris ,

sandal , oakmoss , patchouli

Tanja Bochnig ~ April Aromatics

entry : Midsummer Night's Dream

notes : undisclosed

Alfredo Dupetit ~ BioScent

Jane Cate ~ A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes

entry : Dreams and Visions

notes : mimosa , cassia , rose , sandalwood , patchouli

Amanda Feeley ~ Esscentual Alchemy

entries : Pixie Dust

notes : strawberry isolate , bergamot , davana , balsam fir , rose , karo karounde , violet leaves , poplar buds , honey , vanilla , fire tree , oakmoss

and : Bottom's Dream

notes : peach accord , palmarosa , jasmine , rose maroc , tagetes , araucaria

More info to come as I recieve the samples and fragrance briefs !

Fragonard Murmure parfum

2011-06-10T05:14:00.001-04:00

Murmure whispers in my ear sweet nothings , promises of things to come . She is the prophet , the Angel whose fluttering wings bring the breath of summer .
What else is most prominent to my nose but patchouli -
musky , chocolate-y , soft , round , plump patchouli gilded with indolic jasmine . Pink cheeked tender rose flirts , but shyly , from behind the vanilla/benzoin .
Naughty , but oh-so-nice !
She's related to the wealthy family on the hill - Clive Christian No 1 , and Amouage Gold and even the Classic Matriarch Arpege . She's warm , she's insanely beautiful and she breaks every heart in the room .

Notes -Jasmine, Iris, Pepper, Carnation, Rose, Cinnamon, Benzoin, Patchouli and Vanilla

my bottle is from my dear swapping friend Paco ( thanks darlin' ! )

So many scents , so little to say...

2011-06-09T05:14:00.000-04:00

Le Labo Santal 33 - burlap bag dunked in a vat of musk

Profumi del Forte By Night/White - Teint de Neige garnished with marshmallows

Maison Francis Kirkdjian Lumiere Noire - too much laundry detergent and - oops , the rinse cycle failed

Neil Morris Fetish - last nights whisky glass ( not mine ) spilled on the dessert plates...

Lush Silky Underwear - Can I just say I snorted when I read the name ? But gosh , so pretty . Reminds me of Love Coco ! Which I love...

Brecourt - blech x 11 = waste of time

I was taught that if you can't say something nice...but sometimes I just gotta .

Smelled any epic fails lately ?

In other news , March announced the Posse swap coming up June 22 - I am really gonna offer up a bunch of bottles , so don't miss the fun over there with Musette and Patty and March and Tom and all their Posse pals !

Dior Miss Dior - Extrait !

2011-06-08T05:05:00.000-04:00

Chypre love....Miss Dior in parfum is just gorgeous . Created in 1947 and helping to usher in Dior's new look , Miss Dior has been around and seen a few things in her young life . War , poverty , loss and melancholy have tempered her spirit , but she has come through it with hope and composure .

I swapped for a lovely mini bottle and am just loving this . The extrait is not so very sparkly from aldehydes - it is more herbal green/grassy but immediately creamy/powdery as all my favorite chypres can be . The well blended floral heart holds the herbs in the top together with the classic base and only far later in the drydown does the ambery leathery base begin to smell more of sweet vetiver than of oakmoss . It is at this stage I swear it has an overdose of heliotrope taming the vetiver . The tiny glass bottle and stopper are so retro lovely , just looking at it is a pleasure . ( photo of my bottle below . )

notes :

top -aldehydes, gardenia, galbanum, clary sage and bergamot

heart - carnation, orris, orris root, jasmine, neroli, lily-of-the-valley, rose and narcissus

base - labdanum, leather, sandalwood, amber, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver

2011-06-07T08:11:00.000-04:00

Press Release

Scents Parfums and Arnhem Mode Biennale present a new Fragrance: Amber

New York, NY - Jun 1, 2011

Six Scents Parfums and Arnhem Mode Biennale present Amber, a fragrance that captures the essence of
fashion. As part of the 2011 Joff the artistic director of Arnhem Mode Biennale invited Six Scents to create
a scent that would encapsulate the event’s theme of fashion’s muse: Amber. Just as the largest fashion
exhibition in the Netherlands is a reflection of the entirety of fashion, Amber has been translated to an
olfactory form capturing her alluring, mystifying, transient, omnipresent nature.
Arnhem Mode Biennale’s artistic director Joff simply states “This perfume is a token of love from Amber.”
Kaya Sorhaindo , the creative director of Six Scents Parfums describes his vision for the project as follows:

“As the skin is the canvas for fragrance, the body is a the canvas for fashion. They are two artistic disciplines
that share similar ambitions, to transform and empower. Both are discovered and defined by the
individual and this is where they are given new meaning and become masterpieces. Amber is a celebration
of ‘the self’ as a medium in which perfume and fashion work and continue to evolve.”

The perfumer for the fragrance was Darryl Do from Delbia Do. He expressed his excitement about the
project saying

“When presented with this opportunity to create a fragrance from a purely artistic position
I was ecstatic with the possibilities. Not having to approach it from a market research profile or trend
study is a welcome change”

Arnhem Mode Bienale features some exhibits designed by some of the premier names in fashion. As
part of the event Six Scents Parfums will have an interactive display that will allow visitors to experience
the notes that comprise Amber’s scent.

The notes of Amber are :
sandalwood, leather, amber, violet leaf,cologne and green melon.

The Amber Fragrance is available at the Arnhem Mode Biennale (Until July 4th) and select
department stores, boutiques and apothecaries worldwide.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Six Scents + AMB = Amber

Contact:
Rocky Li rocky@six-scents.com

212.343.3104