Saturday, November 7, 2009

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Gingembre

I love ginger . Thinking back , the first time I ever tasted fresh ginger I was 20 years old and just married . ( My mom is a great cook , but not adventurous , not in the Midwest in the Sixties !) What a revelation , so much flavor , like an orange flavored pepper ! Over the years I've made alot of gingerbread ( with fresh , dried and candied ginger ) , hot ginger tea with honey , and Thai food too . In all it's incarnations , ginger is an integral part of winter warming .
Here comes Gingembre , from DSH Beaux Arts line of fragrances .
On opening , Gingembre is mouthwatering and piquant , the exact impression of slicing into a fresh plump root . But we're not talking food ! This immediately gets richer and warmer . No one does a warm and fuzzy base like Dawn !! Here she adds cocoa and beeswax to labdanum to make this hum and purr along all evening... I absolutely love it !!
From DSH website :
Carol's Ginger Tea
Buy the freshest , plumpest ginger you can find . Place in the freezer until ready for use .
Bring a pot of water to boil . While the water is heating, grate frozen ginger root into a pitcher , about one cup of ginger . ( When frozen , ginger is easier to grate , it fluffs like a sno-cone and almost dissolves into the water . I use a cuisinart , but a hand grater is fine .)
Pour boiling water over the grated ginger , add honey to taste , and slices of fresh orange or lemon .
Strain into cups and drink .
Can be served hot or over ice . The stronger , the better !!

Friday, November 6, 2009

The Different Company Oriental Lounge

Released as an Aedes de Venustas exclusive in NYC , Oriental Lounge was sold out when I was in Manhattan . On paper it was gourmand and sweet . Remember the blotter I sprayed and stuck in my bag ? When I got home and found that blotter : it smelled fantastic...ambery and deep , WANT IT !!
But I couldn't remember what I sprayed on it !
I stood there for an hour re-tracing my steps and finally remembered ! The Oriental Lounge was sold out and this is my only sample ( until today )...So lucky for me I arranged a swap for a decant and here it is !
Celine Elena seems to be making the kind of thing I want to smell . Jasmine de Nuit had me spellbound all summer . My expectations for OL were high ...
Without vanilla , without vetiver...Oriental Lounge .

When the decant arrived I eagerly sprayed on paper and on skin...and was really disappointed .
The gourmand ambery goodness is deftly sliced through with a rough green blade ( curry leaf ? ) but a peppery-woodiness comes through on drydown , that on my skin , creates an allergic reaction . I want to cough ...
I'm so disappointed , maybe I will try again ...I know many will wear and enjoy this delicious creation !

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Robert Piguet Futur

Last Spring , at Spafumerie , we Sniffa-Goers got to sniff a preview vial of Futur . It was one of those hand marked lab-mod-bottles . We were the first to sniff , pre-release . Harrod's would be releasing Futur as an exclusive for the summer , then later this was released here at Bergdorf's . Luca Turin had purchased a vintage bottle years ago in France and reportedly helped Aurelian Guichard recreate the formula .
On first sniff that evening last spring , I declared it too green for me . In all fairness I had been sniffing all day , and I did not have a sample to take home .
Now , I have a proper carded sample to put on skin , hesitantly...and it is green . But so dewy and fresh , I love it . After the opening burst of fresh green , there is an old-fashioned feeling , sort of dusty-powdery from a discreet touch of dirty patchouli ?
The soft floral heart is touching , the drydown woody-patch . The vetiver pokes it's head in after the first burst of tartness , but is quickly tamed by the quietly indolic jasmine balanced with tangy fresh violets...
I will enjoy this next spring , and it would be a lovely brides fragrance , unexpectedly modern and retro .

Top notes: Bergamot and neroli

Middle notes: Spring-like bouquet of violet and jasmine and ylang-ylang

Base notes: Vetiver, cedar and patchouli

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

More Anya's Garden : Fairchild

...a wild hurricane and tropical paradise meet ...

If you have ever witnessed a hurricane , you know what Anya is talking about . The air should not be able to hold more than 100% humidity , but it does . Somehow the world bursts with heat and rain ....
Fairchild is a new creation , containing the most interesting sounding roasted seashells , champaca and four different jasmines .
This is very tart on opening , but after a few minutes it relaxes and the flowers begin to spread their petals on the breeze . However this is not a floral - there is a tension here , a salty edge .
It is more about sun and sand ...I wish there were more florals in the heart ! Where is the lush champaca ? To my nose , the heavy citrus note wins out over any of the flowers . Grounded by gritty ambergris ( and the ghost of roasted seashells , they are not smoky ) , the saltiness is actually delightful , one of the only salty accords I have liked .

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Anya's Garden

When the sample package from Anya's Garden arrived I was careful to open the box and photograph the cute dram vials inside . Now that the flurry of Sniffapalooza has passed I am taking time sampling these handcrafted scents .

Anya McCoy , the creator/nose , lives in South Florida , therefore almost my neighbor , although we have never met .

RiverCali called my name this morning .
Moondance was shouting " tuberose " from the corner , but I said no . RiverCali starts out subtle citrus , slowly warming and growing in rose-vanilla intensity . The notes say pink peppercorn , rose , citrus , vanilla...and it is soft and rounded . Somehow the ambrette goes wrong on my skin , going dirty feet territory , but I often don't like ctrus-vanilla combinations . Overall this is a simple scent that remains light and romantically lovely . Just my disagreeable chemistry !!

I look forward to trying Temple , with sustainable Oud , and Starflower , with tuberose and chocolate !!







Monday, November 2, 2009

Much Ado About Nothing



More nothing .

Rien , released by Etat Libre D'Orange , is the French word for nothing .
Because I love Miller Harris L'air de Rien so much , I wanted to give this a chance . Once again Etat Libre has overdosed this with some disagreeable musk and I actually had to scrub it off .
I bought Putains des Palaces on first sniff a few years ago , but it too has a musk that just suffocates me on my skin .
Some musks I am anosmic to , and some I am hypersensitive !!

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Minuit


Some fragrances come along to remind us of why we love fragrance .

Buried in your memories is an experience you have forgotten . Even though it was once important , this memory has receeded with time . Other experiences have crowded out the more distant ones . In an instant , a scent can reach into those buried memories and elicit a reaction so powerful , it is almost visceral .

Minuit is one of those scents . An odd melancholy feeling came over me when I first sniffed this scent , the feeling of a place I used to love . A place where the air was clean , the ground cushioned with moss , serene , unspoiled , beautiful . How could I forget that summer , the waterfalls ...we were the only people camping there . I could lay in the water at the top of the falls and watch it splash into the pool below . I was a teenager , filled with emotion , naivete , optimism...how could I have ever forgotten that place ?

Notes for Minuit ( from Dawn's Website );
Minuit (Natural)
Dreamy. Silent. Exquisite.

Minuit: The Mystery of Midnight
... at Midnight…the winter’s moon shone, waves of light beaming through the dark night sky. This is when we dream. Minuit embodies the enchantment of midnight and the richness of winter fragrance. Minuit is like no other perfume…it is truly captivating!

made with 86% Botanical ingredients.

Top notes: Cassis Bud, Hazelnut, Silver Fir

Don't let the Oud scare you off , I do not detect any oud in this , so it is very subtle .